hiking

Backpacking in Wyoming's Last Wilderness

When you go on your first backpacking trip, nothing can prepare you for the pain. In your hips, in your legs, the mental discomfort of forcing yourself to reach a destination your body doesn’t think you can reach. You will be carrying a good fraction of your body weight and fueling yourself with dehydrated food.

For my first backpacking trip, my boyfriend, Jared, convinced me to venture with him into one of the Lower 48’s last true wildernesses: the Bridger Wilderness. We planned on 15 miles a day, something only experienced backpackers can do. I’m a hiker. I’ve been hiking for about 4 years now, but I haven’t carried a 30+ pound pack on my back over the long distances I usually hike in a day. Starting out, I suddenly felt connected to Cheryl Strayed, realizing that I couldn’t possibly make it 15 miles when it took me twice as long to cover a mile than it would with just my normal day pack on.

By the time we made it to Eklund Lake, there was talk about stopping, less than halfway to our original goal of Titcomb Basin. We were here to experience the Wind River Range, some of the last untouched wilderness in the country. You can’t drive to the Winds. There are no roads that lead here. The closest many people make it is Photographer’s Point, about 4.5 miles in, where the day hikers usually stop.

The view from Photographer’s Point

The view from Photographer’s Point

But I didn’t want to stop at Eklund Lake. I wanted to feel like I accomplished something, and in my brain, that meant at least making it to Seneca Lake, which is often used as one of two base camps for the Titcomb Basin (the other being Island Lake).

Finally at Seneca Lake

Finally at Seneca Lake

With hundreds of people on the trail, we didn’t see any wildlife except the scattered ground squirrels and chipmunks, and baby birds screaming for food in the trees. I had hoped to see a moose or a bear (from a distance), something that would make this place feel more wild than the parks I usually hike in, but the truth is, the journey itself was what made it wild. At no point did we know how far we’d walked, or how much further we’d have to walk. By the time we made it to Seneca, the avocado I’d packed and meant to eat for lunch suddenly became the best thing I’d ever tasted, but I was still craving potato chips or something other than the sugary protein bars I’d packed due to the last minute decision to go on this trip in the first place.

Entering the wild

Entering the wild

By the time we reached mile 17 over two days, my knee injury decided to scream at me. The last thing I wanted was to walk anymore. But we had to keep going so that we didn’t have to spend another night in the tent. So we kept going, and when we returned to the van, I collapsed on the bed and was so thankful for my tiny home on the road. I was so thankful that I could return to the trailhead and be home. But my body still hurts, even as I write this little recap. My hips are still bruised from carrying my pack, my legs are still sore, and yet, I’m inspired to go again. Not now, but eventually.

-HWS

A Vanlife Guide to Sedona, AZ

If you’re a person who lives on wheels, or even just a person who hates winter, it’s no secret that Arizona is the place to be in January. Nearly every person living that vanlife on the west coast (and some from the east!) comes to Arizona at the end of January every year. After the annual gatherings in Quartzite, me and my new Van Fam (follow them at emma.goes and theotherground) headed out to Sedona, a place I’d been dreaming of visiting for about two years now.

Sedona is one of the most powerful spiritual centers in the country, and is home to tons of red rocks and beautiful hikes. Prior to coming out here, I had no idea how easy it would be to be an overlander in Sedona, but the truth is, Sedona is one of the most vanlife friendly cities I’ve ever visited.

Me and Emma at Cathedral Rock. Photographer: Brien @theotherground

Me and Emma at Cathedral Rock. Photographer: Brien @theotherground

Where is Sedona?

Sedona is located in north-eastern Arizona, making it one of the colder areas of Arizona. It is about 7 hours from the California coast, 5 hours from Joshua Tree, and 3.5 hours from Quartzite, AZ.

Where should I park?

As I said, Sedona is incredibly van friendly, but that means it’s incredibly camp friendly too. This isn’t the type of city where vanlifers are lining the streets, it’s a city surrounded by National Forest land. The best spots to park are along Forest Road 525. You’ll be sure to meet plenty of other van dwellers, and if you drive far enough, you’ll reach the Palatki Native American Ruins. You obviously can’t park at the ruins, but there are spots nearby where you’ll have vast views of the red rocks.

At camp, somewhere on FR525. Photographer: Emma @emma.goes

At camp, somewhere on FR525. Photographer: Emma @emma.goes

What are the best restaurants?

We frequented two amazing vegan/vegetarian restaurants while we were in Sedona: ChocolaTree and Local Juicery. A few of our friends actually work at Local Juicery, so definitely go say hi and support your fellow vanlifers (plus, their avocado toast is the best I’ve ever had). ChocolaTree is more of a spiritually minded spot. It has more of a sit-down restaurant feeling to it, so it’s worth going if you’re craving a hot dinner.

Where can I get water?

Living off the gird means certain things aren’t as easy as they could be in a house. One of those things is water. Luckily, ChocolaTree has a spigot with fresh spring water outside their restaurant that they allowed us to fill our 6 gallon tanks with.

Me at Devils Bridge—the most famous hike in Sedona! Photographer: Emma @emma.goes

Me at Devils Bridge—the most famous hike in Sedona! Photographer: Emma @emma.goes

Where can I go to get in a work day?

There’s always Starbucks, but if you’re looking to get in a work day and catch some views, head to Creekside Coffee. Here, you’ll have views of Snoopy Rock, and can snag some WiFi, even outside.

If you’re interested in learning more about making money on the road, check out Wired Creatives HERE!

Cathedral Rock from below

Cathedral Rock from below

What are the best hikes to do?

If you’ve been following me for a while, you know that hiking is a huge reason I go to certain places. Sedona is a huge hiking hub, so we made it a point to hit a few of the Coconino National Forest trails while we were out there.

Devils Bridge: Devils Bridge is easily the most popular hike to do in Sedona. It features a vast, natural bridge photo op and the entire hike is about 4 miles long. Expect crowded parking, but if you have 4WD, you can make it to the real trailhead and skip walking along the dirt road. If there’s no parking, no worries, you can park on the main road too, but it’ll add about a half mile of walking. Prepare for crowds at the top too. We got lucky with a gloomy day, and only had to wait behind about 6 people each, but normally, it’s a crowd of about 150 people at the top.

Boynton Canyon Vortex: This was one of the most powerful vortexes I experienced in Sedona. It’s not a long hike, but it features red rocks and two spires that are said to represent the divine masculine and divine feminine. If you’re a spiritually minded person, you’ll love this spot, and if you get there early enough in the day, you might just catch the flute player who goes up there daily to hand out heart shaped rocks to people.

Cathedral Rock: This was my absolute favorite spot we went during our time in Sedona. It’s a hike basically made of rock scrambles, which made is extremely fun, and had some amazing photo opportunities at the top. Keep an eye out for the vortex trees—trees that appear to have been swirled (this phenomenon happens due to the high amounts of spiritual energy in the area).

Me and Emma at Cathedral Rock. Photographer: Brien @theotherground

Me and Emma at Cathedral Rock. Photographer: Brien @theotherground

Sedona is an absolutely magical spot. Whether you’re a spiritual person or not, Sedona will change the way you see the desert. The hikes here are breathtaking, the camping is quiet and peaceful, and it’s a great place to feel like you have a sense of community on the road.

Top 3 Dog Friendly National Parks

We all love our dogs so much, and we’d like to bring them everywhere we go, but the sad truth is, America’s Best Idea isn’t a huge fan of Man’s Best Friend. While most of the big and famous National Parks such as Yellowstone, Glacier, and the Grand Canyon don’t allow dogs in most areas of the park (although they are allowed on the paved Rim Trail in GCNP), there are some Parks that may surprise you. I’ve visited more than half of America’s National Parks, and as a self-proclaimed dog enthusiast (or so says my insta bio), I’m always looking out for where I might be able to return later in life with my own pup. National Parks are tricky when it comes to traveling with a dog, but these are three I definitely wouldn’t miss if your dog is your travel partner.

(Since my dog is actually a family dog, he was unable to join me when I visited these parks when I was driving across the country. I did meet plenty of pups on the trails though, and it was a breath of fresh air after being away from home for so long).

North Cascades National Park, WA

North Cascades National Park, WA

Shenandoah National Park, VA

I wasn’t expecting it, but Shenandoah had quite a few dog friendly trails. Of course, dogs are always allowed in campgrounds on leash, but I was happy to see plenty on the Doyle River Falls trail. This is a great trail that leads you to three waterfalls, all of which you and your dog are allowed to swim in. You can go as far as you want on this trail, but the best waterfalls are the last two. It’s definitely a great option if you and your pup want to cool off on a humid day. Since this trail is pup-friendly though, it’s definitely not the only one in the park. Dogs are allowed on most trails in Shenandoah as long as they’re kept on a leash no longer than 6 feet. As with any National Park, though, make sure that you respect wildlife, and do keep your pups off of trails that have heavy wildlife traffic like Old Rag. This is a larger national park, so give yourself plenty of time to explore!

Shenandoah National Park, VA

Shenandoah National Park, VA

Acadia National Park, Maine

I was surprised to learn that Maine’s beautiful Acadia National Park is dog friendly! I’d already fallen head over heels for this perfect combination of pine trees and Atlantic Ocean, so knowing that one day I can return with my future best friend makes me so happy. Acadia is known for its ocean access, but it also has over 100 miles of dog friendly trails where pups are allowed on leashes no longer than 6 feet. The only place you can’t camp with your dog in Acadia is Isle Au Haut and Duck Harbot, but dogs are allowed in the other campgrounds run by the NPS here in Acadia. While Acadia is known for its beaches, dogs are unfortunately not allowed on Sand Beach, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty of dog friendly ocean access in this island park.

Acadia National Park, ME

Acadia National Park, ME

North Cascades National Park, WA

This is easily the most dog friendly National Park I’ve been to. It simply hasn’t changed the rules for the areas that are National Park land because it’s so interspersed with National Forest land, which is run by the USDA, instead of the NPS. Because of that, dogs are allowed on most trails here, and I saw at least three during my little walk in the woods out to Thunder Creek, a longer trail that you can follow to a number of peaks, depending on how many miles you feel like putting in. The most popular peak on this trail lies at only 1.5 miles and ends at a glacial river which you and your dog are welcome to splash around in.

Read more about North Cascades HERE!

North Cascades National Park, WA

North Cascades National Park, WA

Surprising places in other parks:

·       Rialto Beach in Olympic National Park, WA

·       Various spots in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND

·       Mirror Lake Loop, Yosemite National Park, CA

It’s also important to mention that as these are National Parks, it’s important to adhere to “no dog” rules. If a trail says dogs aren’t allowed, they’re not trying to control you, it’s simply for the safety of your dog and other animals. Make sure you perform tick checks after taking your dog on any of these trails, and bring plenty of water for them on any hike you decide to do. Most importantly, have fun, and get ready for a wagging tail when your dog realizes he gets to come with you.


We all love our animals, so it’s only natural that we’d want to help others that are less fortunate than our furry best friends. To support animal sanctuaries around the US, shop ethical apparel at Wholesome Culture!

Top 5 Fee Free National Parks

This post may include affiliate links

If you’re a National Park freak like I am, you probably already own an America the Beautiful pass, or one of the related interagency passes that allow you to get into National Parks for free (or at least cheaper). However, if you’re new to the National Park system, those entrance fees might be slowly blowing that travel budget as you realize how many of your public lands you still have to visit. Luckily, there are a select few National Parks that don’t have an entrance fee attached.

As I traveled the country, these parks all surprised me in different ways. Their landscapes were some that I’d never expect to all be connected somehow by interstate highways, and although a lot of them are smaller parks, there’s a reason they’re protected by the National Park Service. At first, I was disappointed to find out that not all National Parks were like Yosemite, with its entrance gate that suddenly leads you to what feels like a different world, but the truth is, in a country with landscapes as diverse as the United States, it’s important to recognize that beautiful nature comes in all shapes and forms, and sometimes, you need to surrender to the fact that a National Park might include the town built around it, or serve as a highway between two states. When you do this, the result is a certain kind of magic.

These are my top five fee free National Parks:

Lake Kabetogama, Voyageurs National Park, MN

Lake Kabetogama, Voyageurs National Park, MN

#5: Congaree National Park, SC

Honestly, I really like all of these places, so putting this only at #5 was super hard. Congaree is an incredibly unique Park known for its swamp. The famous boardwalk loop will take you through all of its unique landscapes, and it’s a great park for seeing bugs, spiders, and other, larger wildlife, such as armadillos, owls, and snakes. This is also a great park to take kids to, as the boardwalk is easy to walk, and is stroller and wheelchair accessible. There are of course other trails in the park as well, but as this is a swamp, it’s important to hike at your own risk. Congaree does offer a great campground as well, so you can spend as much time soaking in this unique environment as you want.

Tip: It’s still super important to support our parks while we visit because, although they’re federally protected, they don’t get very much funding. If you can, think about purchasing something from the National Park gift shops located inside visitor centers, and if you can’t, simply make sure you Leave No Trace, so that it’s just as beautiful for the next person who comes along.

Congaree National Park, SC

Congaree National Park, SC

#4: Mammoth Cave National Park, KY

Mammoth Cave is the largest cave in the world, stretching over 600 miles long under the ground. The park doesn’t charge admission due to it being the location for over one hundred historic cemeteries, but they do charge a small fee to get into the cave. For only $6 you can explore the cave on a self guided tour of their lit area, and for only a bit more you can go on a ranger guided tour, and experience even more of the cave itself. If you really don’t want to pay anything, though, there are plenty of nearby hiking trails for you to explore, and you can definitely view the natural entrance to the cave for free (although, at that point, you might as well pay the $6 to go in). The cave itself is a crisp 52 degrees Fahrenheit, so bring a sweatshirt! The park does also offer an awesome campground, so be sure to get there early if you need a spot to stay!

Mammoth Cave National Park, KY

Mammoth Cave National Park, KY

#3: North Cascades National Park, WA

North Cascades National Park is a fantastic mountainous park that’s free because it’s so interspersed with National Forest land. The Park itself is home to quite a few campgrounds, but they’re all spread out along the highway, so do some research about what part of the Park you’d like to call home before you get up there. While there is no cell service or internet in most of the area, I did get some service at the Newhalem Visitor Center, so for a solo traveler, that’s the campground I’d recommend. North Cascades has tons of great trails, and is dog friendly.

North Cascades National Park, WA

North Cascades National Park, WA

#2: Voyageurs National Park, MN

While Voyageurs doesn’t really have its own campground, it’s surrounded by State and National Forests, which provide plenty of spots in the woods for people who need to stop for the night. Voyageurs doesn’t have a ton of hiking trails (all of them can basically be done in one day), but the landscape is absolutely gorgeous. Right across the lake lies Canada, and the views are to die for. You’ll be surrounded by forest your entire trip here, and needless to say, there’s plenty of wildlife to be found. There’s also cell service throughout the whole park, and plenty of access to nearby lakes for boats, kayaks, and paddle boards.

Voyageurs National Park, MN

Voyageurs National Park, MN

#1: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Bet you didn’t know that the Smokies were free to visit! It’s no question that Great Smoky Mountains National Park would end up in my #1 slot for this category. The National Park with the most annual visitors in the country, the road that goes through the park itself actually serves as a road that people use to commute, and spans from North Carolina to Tennessee. The Smokies are an incredibly biodiverse landscape that’s home to black bears, a huge selection of plants, and of course, the fog that give the Smokies their name. The drive through the Smokies is one of the most magical out of all the National Parks I’ve been to, and the hiking offers fantastic views like the one pictured below. As one of the big and famous National Parks, the Great Smoky Mountains should absolutely be near the top of your list. I mean, who wouldn’t want to see one of the most incredible landscapes in the country for free?

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN and NC

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN and NC

While National Parks tend to cost between $20 and $35 just for admission, these are great for the new National Park explorer. Here, you’ll be able to get out, and enjoy the outdoors for practically nothing, making it so you can enjoy your time in the parks just a little more.


When visiting or camping in any National Park (or outdoor space in general for that matter), you’ll need some high quality gear. For a great deal on some of my favorite outdoor gear, head over to Madera Outdoor and use code “halleswanderingsoul” for 20% off!

Wyoming: A State of Firsts

Disclaimer: this post may include affiliate links

When I hit the road back in June 2019, Wyoming was one of the first states I visited, and the first that I would describe as a mountain state. Crossing from Idaho into the Northwestern corner of Wyoming brought me almost directly into Yellowstone National Park: the country’s first National Park, and widely regarded as the first National Park in the world.

Wyoming is a state of firsts when it comes to protected land. From the first National Park, to the country’s first National Monument, to some personal firsts along my own journey, Wyoming will always hold a special and important place in my wandering soul. Having visited four of Wyoming’s National Park Service Sites, I’ll be the first to jump up and explain the state’s diversity, but it’s the firsts that really make this state unique. Yellowstone and Devils Tower (the country’s first National Monument) are two incredibly different landscapes, and yet are two must-visit places for anyone visiting Wyoming for the first time.

Artists Paint Pots, Yellowstone National Park, WY

Artists Paint Pots, Yellowstone National Park, WY

Yellowstone National Park

Of course, while there’s definitely more to do in Wyoming, Yellowstone is a good place to start. As the world’s first National Park, Yellowstone offers incredibly vast landscapes, some of the best camping I’ve ever experienced, and diverse wildlife (including the famed “bison traffic jam”).

 Yellowstone is a unique experience that everyone should have at some point in their lives. The park itself is an active volcano, and it’s known for its geysers, prismatic pools, and incredible views.

I only had the fortune of staying one night in Yellowstone, but it was one of my favorite nights of my whole 3 months traveling the US.

My first day in the park involved sightseeing. I’m usually a huge hiker, but with my limited time in the park, I was determined to see as much as I possibly could. My first stop was the Artist Paint Pots, little pools of boiling water that give Yellowstone such an iconic landscape. The Paint Pots smell a bit like sulfur and are definitely too hot to even go near, which is why the park has built a boardwalk surrounding the pools. It’s not one of the most famous places to stop, but it was definitely cool enough for me to put it on your radar.

Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone National Park, WY

Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone National Park, WY

From there I made my way to Old Faithful: the famous geyser. While it’s not the largest in the park, it’s the most famous because of its predictability. If you love Old Faithful, you’re in luck because there are tons of other geysers just waiting for you throughout Yellowstone. Unfortunately, I got to Old Faithful about five minutes after it erupted, which meant I had to wait about an hour and a half before it would go off again. Luckily, this forced slow-down was just what I needed and let me stop and have my lunch and hit the visitor center.

After being wowed by Old Faithful, I made sure to hit some other iconic sites on my way to my campground. I passed the Grand Prismatic Spring, Mud Volcano, and Yellowstone Lake, and finally ended my drive for the day in Canyon Campground, one of my favorite campgrounds I’ve stayed in. It was definitely a chilly night, and Yellowstone made it easy to handle with everything that came with my campground reservation. Located in Canyon Village, Canyon Campground had the most amenities included in a campsite I’ve ever experienced. I got 2 free showers, access to laundry, access to a dishwashing station, flush toilets, and my own personal bear box, and the campground was close to the store and café where there was spotty wifi available (not super strong, but enough to use to get in touch with my family). It was also one of the only places in the park with a gas station. Canyon was a fantastic experience, yet it was a bit pricey. For one night, though, it was more than perfect.

These bison proceeded to surround my car after I took this picture

These bison proceeded to surround my car after I took this picture

My second day in the park, as I made my way toward the Tetons, I made sure to hit one more stop: Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The South Rim has one of the most famous views in the park—Artists Point—which is known for attracting painters and photographers from all over the world. On my way in, I spotted one lone bison eating his breakfast, and on my way out, I found myself in my own personal bison traffic jam, alone on the road, surrounded by animals nearly as big as my car.

The one thing I wish I did when I was in Yellowstone was to head up to the Lamar Valley. The Lamar Valley is known for having some of the best wildlife in the park, so it’s definitely on my list for next time!

Artists Point, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park, WY

Artists Point, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park, WY

Devils Tower National Monument

I wasn’t expecting to return to Wyoming, but after learning how close Devil’s Tower is to South Dakota, the science fiction nerd in me couldn’t help by head back into this familiar place from the beginning of my trip.

Devil’s Tower is the country’s first National Monument, and was used as the set for Steven Spielberg’s Close Encounters of the Third Kind. It’s the only rock formation of its kind, and attracts climbers from all over the world. While it’s much smaller than Yellowstone, I actually stayed two nights here because I wanted some time to rest and not drive for a day.

The park only has one campground, and I lucked out and got a site with a direct view of the Tower (A12, if you’re curious). During the summer months, the campground offers fun ranger programs at night (I learned all about prairie dogs), and everything in the park is super close to everything else.

Devils Tower from Tower Trail Loop

Devils Tower from Tower Trail Loop

My second day involved hiking the “Devils Tower Marathon,” a connection of trails recommended to me by a ranger I got to know while I was there (since the park is so small, there were only a select few rangers around). The trails start with the Joyner Ridge Trail. You can find the trailhead by driving up a little dirt road near the visitor center, and you’ll be greeted with amazing views of the tower once you’re up there. You’ll then take this to the connector trail between Joyner Ridge and Red Beds, and from there, if you want, you can connect to the valley views trail (which I didn’t do because of stinging nettles), or continue to the Tower Trail loop before finishing the Red Beds and Joyner Ridge.

The entire series of trails gives you an awesome, diverse look at the park, and plenty of views of the tower and the climbers that have set out to summit it that day.

Devils Tower is an incredibly unique place that you won’t find anywhere else on the planet, so if it wasn’t on your radar before, it definitely should be.

Devils Tower from Red Beds Trail

Devils Tower from Red Beds Trail

Wyoming is a state of firsts, and while I visited two other National Park Service sites while I was there, these are the two that have made the biggest lasting impact on United States public land conservation throughout the years. They’re both very different from both each other and all other public land in the country, and deserve to be on your list, no matter where you’re from.


In order to camp in any landscape or climate, you’ll need some great gear. To get some of my favorite camping gear, head over to Madera Outdoor and use code “halleswanderingsoul” for 20% off.