Where To Go As a First Time Visitor: West

PART TWO

Last week I started a new series to help people venturing out west for the first time decide where exactly they should visit in each state or region. This week, we’re heading a little further from the coast, and visiting three of the most underrated western states. So, pack your car, and get ready to drive, these spots are about to change your whole view of the west.

Sawtooth Mountains, ID

Idaho: Sawtooth Mountains

I have heard from other travelers that Idaho is only okay, but in my opinion, it is a place that needs to be on everyone’s bucket list, and here’s why: The Sawtooths. The Sawtooth Mountains are some of the most unique peaks in the Rockies, and they’re home to countless lakes, and some of the most expansive landscapes I’ve seen in this part of the country. There are tons of boondocking spots nearby, and the town of Stanley is adorable. There are even opportunities for you to go rafting or rent kayaks when in town. Even the park has beautiful views, and the hiking and backpacking in the mountains in unmatched.

Things to do:

Backpack to Sawtooth Lake

Kayak on Pettit Lake

Go find a hot spring

Idaho is the best hidden gem out west, so seriously, don’t knock it ‘til you hit the Sawtooths for the first time.

Nevada: Valley of Fire State Park

Nevada to me is the gateway to the Southwest from California, where I grew up. It is the first place to find red rocks, and one of the most underrated deserts in the country. I’ve picked Valley of Fire State Park as my first destination for people visiting Nevada because it’s beautiful, it’s a great way to see some of the state’s most beautiful landscapes, it’s fairly close to places like Vegas, and it has its own campground. It’s also very close to Lake Mead, which you can hit if you’re on your way to Arizona from here.

Things to do:

Drive the scenic road

Find some Petroglyphs (I like AtlAtl Rock for this)

Go on a hike (but bring lots of water)

Valley of Fire was actually once underwater, and is home to so many desert animals (including the biggest lizards I’ve ever seen). It’s definitely the best place to go if you’re trying to truly experience Nevada’s desert on a trip out west.

Arizona: Sedona

I easily could’ve picked the Grand Canyon for Arizona, but since everyone who visits Arizona goes here anyway, I thought I’d mix it up a little bit. Sedona is a town known for its spiritual energy, red rocks, and vanlife friendly facilities. It’s a popular vacation spot, and many people flock here to hike trails like Devils Bridge. But it’s really the best way to truly experience what the Arizona landscape can hold, and embrace the desert in its fullness. Sedona is a place full of love, beautiful sunsets, and endless hikes, and I think it’s a great idea for anyone wanting to spend a longer trip in Arizona (since the Grand Canyon can be seen in about 3 days or less).

Things to do:

Hike Devils Bridge

Go see the Hononki and Palatki Ruins

Meditate on Cathedral Rock (after the best hike in the area)

Sedona is a place that I personally could spend weeks in. There are so many hikes, so many famous rock formations, and so much to see. It’s also largely dog and van friendly. For first time Arizona goers, there’s no place better.

Want help planning your trip? Give me a call! Schedule a phone call with me to day at the link below!

Where You Should Go As a First Time Visitor: West Coast

PART ONE

This month, Jared, Lassen, and I are staying put to build our new tiny home on wheels, and while I’ll be writing a big post at the end of this giant adventure talking about the whole process, I decided to start a new series while we wait, talking about some of the states I know well, and leading up to a bigger project I’ve been working on in the sidelines. The goal with this series is to talk about the ONE place you should visit if you’ve never been to a state or region. A lot of you are planning road trips, or simply planning domestic travel in general, so if you’re looking for the best place to see what a state has to offer, you’re in the right place. For the first installment of this series, we’re gonna talk about my absolute favorite part of the country: the West Coast, which includes California, Oregon, and Washington.

Olympic National Park, WA

Southern California: Joshua Tree

I decided to split California into two sections because the north and the south are so drastically different from each other. Southern California is known for three things: beaches, cities, and desert. While I could have easily picked a beach for this, I truly think the Southern California desert is one of the most unique places in the country, so, let’s go to one of my favorite National Parks: Joshua Tree.

Joshua Tree is located about halfway between San Diego and Los Angeles, in adjacent to the towns of Joshua Tree and Yucca Valley. It’s also less than an hour from the Salton Sea and Slab City. This unique National Park is home to the largest population of unique Joshua “trees” in the country. The trees are actually part of the agave family, and the oldest is over 300 years old!

What should I not miss?

·       Hike Ryan Mountain

·       Find the Hall in the Hall of Horrors

·       Walk through the Cholla Cactus Gardens

This unique desert is one of my favorite destinations in Southern California, and because of its proximity to other SoCal hotspots, you’ll be able to make a whole road trip out of it!

Northern California: Yosemite

Seriously, if you thought I’d pick anywhere else in NorCal for a first time visitor… you haven’t been to Yosemite! Yosemite is one of the three most famous National Parks in the country (the others being Grand Canyon and Yellowstone), and it’s a hiking, rock climbing, and sight seeing destination for travelers coming from all over the world.

Yosemite is known for its giant rock formations, or monoliths, including El Capitan (which you might recognize from documentaries like Free Solo and The Dawn Wall), and Half Dome. It’s also known for having the tallest waterfall in the Lower 48, which you can hike to the top of.

What should I not miss?

·       Drive up to Glacier Point

·       Hike the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls

·       See Mirror Lake (in the spring and summer only)

·       See Yosemite Falls

·       Watch the sunset from the meadows over Half Dome

Yosemite was the National Park that made me fall in love with National Parks, and I hope it does the same for you, first time visitor. Have fun, and keep an eye out for black bears!

Oregon: Mount Hood

I easily could’ve picked Crater Lake for this spot, but nowhere in Oregon captures the beauty of the Pacific Northwest quite like Mount Hood. Mount Hood is a National Forest (run by the USFS, not the NPS like Joshua Tree and Yosemite), and it’s home to lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and of course, the famous mountain itself.

The Pacific Northwest is the best place to experience wild nature, and Mount Hood definitely has plenty of that. From opportunities to climb the mountain, to places to relax by the water, to more civilized excursions, like visiting the famous Timberline Lodge for some awesome views, this National Forest has a little bit of everything.

What should I not miss?

·       Trillium Lake

·       Tamanawas Falls

·       Timberline Lodge

Mount Hood is truly a Pacific Northwest destination that will give you the best of Oregon and keep you wanting to come back again and again.

Washington: Olympic

Olympic is truly the place that embodies everything Pacific Northwest. Here, you’ve got the coast, the forests, the mountains, the animals… everything you think of when you think of the PNW, Olympic has it somewhere within the Park boundaries.

Olympic is definitely a difficult place to get to, though, especially if you’re flying into Seattle, rather than driving from Oregon. You will have to either cross the Puget Sound by ferry or drive around it, and then you can decide which direction you’d like to loop around the Olympic Peninsula. Olympic is a huge National Park, but most of the park is wilderness and isn’t accessible by car. This makes it one of the best parks for backpacking in the entire country.

What should I not miss?

·       Rialto Beach

·       Hoh Rainforest

·       Hurricane Ridge for sunset

·       Obstruction Point (if you’re not scared of heights)

·       Crescent Lake

Olympic is easily one of the most unique National Parks in the country, and one of the places you’re sure to experience the best of the Pacific Northwest in its rawest form.

If you’re a first time west coast traveler, you have so many amazing landscapes to look forward to. So, why not start with one of these and go from there? If you’re looking to travel soon, but have no idea where to start, check out my new consulting services outside of Patreon for new travelers looking to plan a one time trip.

Everything We Did in Upper Peninsula, MI

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is truly like another state. It had been on my list for a long time—since before I even went on my 48 state, 3 month road trip. The Upper Peninsula, or UP, is a place that has been recommended to me by so many people over the years, and as we (me, Jared, and our dog, Lassen), make our way toward Kentucky to work on a new van, it was finally time to go the extra mile to explore the UP.

The UP is located in between Michigan, Wisconsin, Lake Michigan, Lake Superior, and Lake Huron—aka it’s super isolated. It’s so far north, its weather patterns mimic those of Canada, rather than its surrounding states, and the lakes are so big they give off a chill of their own. The best time of year to visit is the fall season, specifically the second half of September, since that is when all the leaves are changing colors! We spent almost a week in the UP, so here are all the things we did while we were there.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

The Keweenah Peninsula

The first thing we did in the UP was drive even further north. That’s right, the Upper Peninsula, has an even smaller peninsula! It’s called the Keweenah Peninsula, and it sticks up straight into Lake Superior. The biggest town closest to the tip is called Copper Harbor. It’s a super adorable little boat town, and if you have a vehicle with 4WD you can make it to the tip of the peninsula! We do not, so we stayed in town! During our time on the Keweenah Peninsula, we searched for fall leaves, happened upon a waterfall, and visited Hunter’s Point Park where we did some light hiking and enjoyed the views of Lake Superior.

Keweenah National Historic Park

This is actually on the Keweenah Peninsula too, but it’s worth it’s own little section here! This unique National Park is home to a multitude of historic buildings all throughout the Peninsula, including a mine and a lighthouse. During a drive up to Copper Harbor, you’ll pass multiple opportunities to experience the unique history of this part of the United States.

Somewhere on the Keweenah Peninsula

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Pictured Rocks was actually on my original route for my 48 state trip, but I decided to skip it due to the lengthy hours it would take for me to get up there and the lack of boondocking in the area. This time around though, we were able to spend two days exploring the lakeshore, its waterfalls, and its cool rock formations! This is the ideal place to hike among fall leaves, kayak on the crystal clear waters of the largest lake in the world by surface area, or just enjoy a beach on a clear day.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Know Before You Go to the UP:

Weather: Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is remote. And it’s very cold. No matter what time of year, make sure you bring a good jacket for your trip up north!

How to get there: To get to the UP, you can either drive straight through from Wisconsin, or cross the Mackinac Bridge for a $4 toll from mainland Michigan (the Mitten).

Cell Signal and WiFi: Cell service is limited on the Keweenah Peninsula, so make sure you download Google Maps before your visit.

Souvenirs: Before you leave, make sure you pick up a bag of wild rice—it’s native to this part of the country, so make sure you get it in a place where it’s authentic!

The UP is a place I definitely want to return to in the future (but maybe when it’s a little warmer!). It’s stunningly beautiful in a way I did not expect, and there’s something worth seeing around every corner. The UP should truly be on everyone’s bucket list—is it on yours?

Backpacking in Wyoming's Last Wilderness

When you go on your first backpacking trip, nothing can prepare you for the pain. In your hips, in your legs, the mental discomfort of forcing yourself to reach a destination your body doesn’t think you can reach. You will be carrying a good fraction of your body weight and fueling yourself with dehydrated food.

For my first backpacking trip, my boyfriend, Jared, convinced me to venture with him into one of the Lower 48’s last true wildernesses: the Bridger Wilderness. We planned on 15 miles a day, something only experienced backpackers can do. I’m a hiker. I’ve been hiking for about 4 years now, but I haven’t carried a 30+ pound pack on my back over the long distances I usually hike in a day. Starting out, I suddenly felt connected to Cheryl Strayed, realizing that I couldn’t possibly make it 15 miles when it took me twice as long to cover a mile than it would with just my normal day pack on.

By the time we made it to Eklund Lake, there was talk about stopping, less than halfway to our original goal of Titcomb Basin. We were here to experience the Wind River Range, some of the last untouched wilderness in the country. You can’t drive to the Winds. There are no roads that lead here. The closest many people make it is Photographer’s Point, about 4.5 miles in, where the day hikers usually stop.

The view from Photographer’s Point

But I didn’t want to stop at Eklund Lake. I wanted to feel like I accomplished something, and in my brain, that meant at least making it to Seneca Lake, which is often used as one of two base camps for the Titcomb Basin (the other being Island Lake).

Finally at Seneca Lake

With hundreds of people on the trail, we didn’t see any wildlife except the scattered ground squirrels and chipmunks, and baby birds screaming for food in the trees. I had hoped to see a moose or a bear (from a distance), something that would make this place feel more wild than the parks I usually hike in, but the truth is, the journey itself was what made it wild. At no point did we know how far we’d walked, or how much further we’d have to walk. By the time we made it to Seneca, the avocado I’d packed and meant to eat for lunch suddenly became the best thing I’d ever tasted, but I was still craving potato chips or something other than the sugary protein bars I’d packed due to the last minute decision to go on this trip in the first place.

Entering the wild

By the time we reached mile 17 over two days, my knee injury decided to scream at me. The last thing I wanted was to walk anymore. But we had to keep going so that we didn’t have to spend another night in the tent. So we kept going, and when we returned to the van, I collapsed on the bed and was so thankful for my tiny home on the road. I was so thankful that I could return to the trailhead and be home. But my body still hurts, even as I write this little recap. My hips are still bruised from carrying my pack, my legs are still sore, and yet, I’m inspired to go again. Not now, but eventually.

-HWS

A Visitor's Guide to Mount Rainier National Park

Home to three National Parks, Washington State is a nature-lover’s dream destination. From the sprawling mountains of the North Cascades to the hidden rainforest of Olympic, there’s something for everyone in this Pacific Northwest state. But there’s one National Park that stands out as a crowd favorite when it comes to Washington, and that’s Mount Rainier.

Mount Rainier is the most glaciated mountain in the lower 48. This park stays cold well into the summer months, and attracts visitors of all ages to come and explore its forests, climb to its peak, and discover its secret lakes and waterfalls created by snowmelt. In the summer, you can spot beautiful wildflowers and incredible wildlife as you explore the park, and still experience the same snowy landscapes as winter visitors in some areas of the park.

We recently spent the holiday weekend in Mount Rainier and explored the best areas of the park. Here is my guide to help you plan your visit.

The view from an overlook accessible from a trail near the Sunrise Visitor Center.

First things first…

Mount Rainier is located about 2 hours south of Seattle, WA, and is bordered by the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie and Gifford-Pinchot National Forests. These areas are home to animals such as black bears, marmots, elk, and deer, so be on the lookout for any creatures as you drive through the park!

The entry fee for Mount Rainier is $30 per vehicle or the America the Beautiful Pass. During COVID-19, Mount Rainier is doing fee collection.

Pets are allowed to join you during your visit, but they are limited to certain areas of the park, such as parking lots, campgrounds, and picnic areas. There is a dirt road in the Sunrise section of the park where you can walk your dog. Dogs are not permitted on park trails.

There are two campgrounds in the park, White River and Ohanapecosh, but there are also tons of boondocking and dispersed camping spots in the nearby forests.

Mount Rainier National Park

Sections of the park

There are five main sections of the park: Ohanapecosh, Longmire, Paradise, Sunrise, and Carbon River. Each section has something unique to see and do.

In Ohanapecosh, experience old growth forests, deep canyons, and gorgeous views! We didn’t spend too much time in this section because the road was closed ten miles in due to winter damage.

The Longmire area leads into Paradise, which is the subalpine area in the southern end of the park. Longmire is where the park’s founders stayed during their time in the area, so this is an important area to stop and experience on your way up to the subalpine!

On the way from Longmire to Paradise there are plenty of amazing views to see!

In Paradise, you’ll find yourself up next to the mountain. Here, you’ll be able to experience the subalpine in the southern side of the park, much of which stays snowy well into summer. Here, we were able to do the Nisqually Vista Trail, a small snow hike that leads to a glacial view of Nisqually Glacier.

The Carbon River section is located in the Northwest corner of the park, and is known for being the park’s temperate rainforest. This area is generally cool and rainy, and is a great place to experience some of the most unique Pacific Northwest landscapes.

Mount Rainier is perfect for solo travelers looking to get out of their comfort zones!

Sunrise is our personal favorite section of the park. Here, you’ll reach elevations of 6,400 feet and might meet animals like black bears and marmots. Here, there are plenty of hiking trails that are accessible in early summer, despite the snow, just make sure that you know your hiking level! This is one of the best places to see Emmons Glacier.

Sunrise at Sunrise Point is an incredible experience

Best underrated things to do

While Mount Rainier is known for hiking and mountaineering, there are plenty of really underrated things to experience! These are our favorite things we did during our time in the park.

Get up for sunrise… at Sunrise

Sunrise in the PNW is incredibly early, but you’ll never experience a sunrise like the ones from Sunrise Point in the park. Here, you’ll be above the clouds and get incredible and almost private views of Mount Rainier as soon as the sun comes up. In early July, we got up at 4:30 to drive from the park entrance to Sunrise Point for sunrise at 5am.

A secret no-name lake in Mount Rainier National Park with the famous mountain hiding behind some clouds

Search for hidden waterfalls and lakes

While it is still a hike, it’s not a long one to find the best secret lake and waterfall. The Glacier Basin Trail that starts in White River Campground is home to tons of small yet beautiful waterfalls, and if you’re brave enough, a secret glacial lake with no official name that might take a little bit of effort to find!

Drive up to Tipsoo Lake

This part of the park is free to visit and has an beautiful reflective lake perfect for catching views of Mount Rainier, experiencing some July snow, and having a picnic in the picnic area. The drive up here also has views that can’t be beat!

The view of Mount Rainier from Tipsoo Lake in July

Mount Rainier is truly an incredible National Park to visit, and easily the best in the state of Washington. Home to one of the tallest mountains in the country, this is a site that can’t be missed during your time in the Pacific Northwest. From wildflower to wild animals, to awakening your own wild self, Mount Rainier is sure to give you experiences you won’t soon forget.

My Top 10 Places From My First Year of Travel

Last week, I officially hit my one year anniversary of being on the road. Last June, I hit the road in my Kia Soul with the goal of driving each of the Lower 48 states in one summer, and boy did I accomplish that. I’m now on my second run around the country, moving in the opposite direction. This year has brought a series of ups and downs, transformation, and unexpected plot twists, but more than anything, it’s brought me to some of my favorite places. These are my top 10 favorite spots I’ve been in the past year.

Luang Prabang, Laos

10: Valley of Fire State Park, NV

This one had to make the list because it’s where my journey began, but more than that, it’s one of the prettiest desert landscapes I’ve ever been to. Known for its red rocks, Valley of Fire is famous for its color, its heat, and its history. This state park was formed underwater, and over hundreds of years, became the desert landscape we know today. It’s home to tons of desert wildlife, and beautiful (but sandy) hikes. The whole park can generally be seen in one day, but give it two if you really want the full experience!

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

Want access to my 48 state road trip route? Click the button below to get started!

9: Joshua Tree National Park, CA

Joshua Tree will always hold a special place in my heart because it’s the National Park I’ve been to the most times. Five times to be exact! I truly feel like a local when I visit, and I love showing people around. While it wasn’t part of my 48 state itinerary, it was a place I visited 3 times in 2019, and another in early 2020. Joshua Tree is known for its strange agave “trees” that look like something from Doctor Seuss! It’s a hotspot for Park enthusiasts, climbers, and hikers, or just anyone who wants to experience a scenic drive!

Joshua Tree National Park, CA

8: Acadia National Park, ME

Acadia blew my mind when I first arrived at the park. It was the first place I ever saw both pine trees and the ocean in one place. This was also the furthest from home I drove solo on my 48 state road trip, so it’s got a certain nostalgia to it. Acadia sits on the Atlantic coast, and is home to pine trees, rocky cliffs, a gorgeous beach, and Cadillac Mountain, which is super fun to drive up for sunset! While it isn’t a huge park, it’s definitely one of the most unique ones I’ve ever visited, and was the first place that convinced me to stay longer than I’d originally planned.

Acadia National Park, ME

7: Bend, OR

I never thought I’d put any cities on this list, but Bend stole my heart. Tucked away in the Deschutes National Forest of Central Oregon, Bend is one of the most outdoorsy towns out there. Nearly everyone here does an outdoor sport. And from watching the surfers on the river, to hiking the nearby mountains, to climbing at Smith Rock, there’s an endless amount of outdoor activities to experience here.

Smith Rock State Park in Bend, OR

6: Sedona, AZ

Sedona is another town that totally won me over. It’s basically the desert version of Bend, but spiritual. It’s full of vortexes—large areas of strong spiritual energy—so a lot of people come here to meditate, heal, and get away from it all. Sedona is also known for hiking, red rocks, and history. Between exploring the ancient ruins, hiking Devils Bridge, and simply getting red dust all over the car, there’s something for everyone in Sedona.

Cathedral Rock in Sedona, AZ

5: Redwoods National and State Parks, CA

When I first visited Redwoods last summer, it wasn’t all I thought it would be. But when I spent a week exploring the area last month, it quickly became one of my favorite places ever, and easily my favorite place in California (my home state). Redwoods is, of course, known for its towering Redwood trees—the tallest in the world! But it’s also home to coastlines, stunning wildlife, and every bright green plant you can imagine!

Redwoods National Park, CA

4: Devils Tower National Monument, WY

Devils Tower was a place I wasn’t expecting to visit last year, but it’s a place that I always recommend to people when they want to visit Wyoming. This park is known for the remnants of a dormant volcano that now stands silent over the Eastern Wyoming plains. This park attracts climbers, explorers, and lovers of science fiction (after being used as the set for Close Encounters of the Third Kind), and is home to wildlife such as prairie dogs, which you can meet up close!

Devils Tower National Monument, WY

3: Thailand

Oh yeah, I went to Southeast Asia for the winter! Thailand totally changed the way I see adventure travel. It was the first country to truly introduce me to another culture in depth, and it really opened my eyes to how international travel could and should be. I spent time in remote villages, trekked for free roaming elephants with their Mahouts, and gave back to communities in need. This trip brought me through caves, drove me through rivers, and taught me a new language. While Thailand is easily one of the most popular destinations in Southeast Asia, it’s one where I truly beg you to get off the beaten path and explore some more remote areas instead of sticking to Bangkok and the coastal parts.

Mueang Khong, Thailand

2: Glacier National Park, MT

This was so hard not to put as #1, so let’s just say this is my top choice for domestic, US travel. Glacier National Park was truly the most incredible place I went to in the Lower 48, and as I continue to travel here, it remains in that position. Glacier is known for its glaciers, alpine landscape, myriad of wildlife, and scenic drive. It made such an impact, I actually wrote a whole in-depth guide to it, which you can find by clicking the button below.

Grinnell Glacier in Glacier National Park, MT

1: Laos

Laos is truly my favorite place in the world. It was a place I wasn’t expecting to love as much as I do, and a country that blew my mind every turn I took. Here, I spent most of my time volunteering in the weaving village of Sop Chem, but because of that, it was truly the most unique travel experience I’ve ever had. We swam in waterfalls, fed Moon Bears, climbed a mountain, and made connections with the locals, who are some of the kindest people I’ve ever met. Laos is a small country with a rich history, and it’s definitely underrated when it comes to Southeast Asia travel.

Learn more about Laos by clicking the button below!

Nam Ou River, Laos

The past year of travel has truly changed my life. I’ve explored so much, and I can’t wait to share these places with those I love, and continue to add more places to the list (although it’ll be hard to take some of these off as I grow my been-there list!).

Want help planning a trip to any of these places? Consider me your travel expert! Click the button below to get started!

Honorable mentions:

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Bryce Canyon National Park

Alabama Hills, CA

Alabama Hills

Mono Lake, CA

Mono Lake

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN/NC

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Craters of the Moon National Monument, ID

Craters of the Moon

Mount Hood National Forest, OR

Mount Hood

Where to Explore in (and around) Bend, OR

If you’re at all familiar with the Pacific Northwest, you’ve probably heard of Bend. To me, it’s the mountain version of Sedona. It’s surrounded by National Forest Land, and everyone here recreates outdoors, from river surfing to climbing. It’s a city that welcomes vanlifers, and has some of the best nature in Central Oregon right on its doorstep.

We had the chance to spend about a week in Bend while we waited for our new dog, Lassen to be able to get his shots, so we took advantage of our time there, and explored every corner. These are the top 3 things to do in and near Bend, OR.

Tumalo Falls

Tumalo Falls is located closest to the downtown area of all the spots on this list. It is part of a busy recreation area in the Deschutes National Forest that follows a stream of waterfall runoff. When we were there, the road to the actual parking area was closed, but it was a short and easy 2.5 miles of road hiking to the falls. Once you get there, there are three viewpoints, a mid-height one that you’ll see first, an easily accessible top of the falls view, and a more hidden trail to beneath the falls (where you might get a bit wet!).

Tumalo Falls is dog and family friendly and welcomes people recreating as hikers and mountain bikers. There is a $5 fee to park in the main parking lot if the road is open (but I believe they accept the America The Beautiful Pass as well).

On the way to Tumalo Falls

Smith Rock State Park

Smith Rock State Park is easily one of the most popular things to do in Bend, OR for hikers and climbers. When I asked what people suggested in Bend, this was the first thing to come up. I’d been here once last summer as well when I was driving the Lower 48, but because we had the new dog with us, I knew it would be a good choice, since the park is dog friendly. At Smith Rock, there is a $5 day use fee (and they do not accept Interagency Passes like America The Beautiful as they are a state park).

Smith Rock is known for its towering rock spires, winding Crooked River, and its over 1000 sport climbing routes. Needless to say, as a hiking/climbing couple, we had to at least check it out. Smith Rock is a desert, though, and currently, due to a public health safety law, all water fountains in the park are turned off. Please make sure you prepare for hot weather and bring more water than you think you need.

Smith Rock State Park

Crater Lake National Park

While Crater Lake isn’t specifically in Bend, Bend is the closest big city north of the park. The National Park officially reopened on June 6, 2020, and currently, the only parts of the park that remain closed are due to weather. Crater Lake is the ninth deepest lake in the world, and the deepest in the United States, so even if the trails are closed due to snow, it’s not impossible to get a grand view worthy of the photo albums during your trip to Crater Lake.

Until the snow melts, only Crater Lake’s West Rim Drive will be open, as well as the Rim Village gift shop. Even though this is only 13 miles of road, it will give you the best and closest views of Wizard Island and the nearby mountains in the distance.

Read more about Crater Lake in my full guide to the park. Click the button below to read!

Crater Lake National Park at the end of its winter season

Bend, OR is one of the most outdoorsy towns in the Pacific Northwest. It’s known for its outdoor sports, rivers, and nearby parks. And on top of that, it’s incredibly dog and van friendly! So next time you’re passing through Oregon, make sure you stop and take a hike—the view is worth it.

A Complete Guide to Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park in Montana is truly one of those treasures that can’t be missed in the Lower 48. From its sprawling landscapes to its abundant wildlife, there’s nothing not to love about Glacier. It’s truly my favorite place in the entire contiguous United States. For people who haven’t visited, it often tops their National Parks bucket list, and for those who have been, it’s often a destination they’re trying desperately to revisit. Glacier National Park is a special place, and one that should be visited with care, to protect its rapidly changing natural landscape.

Because Glacier is such a large National Park, with multiple sections, I’ve found that it’s a bit intimidating to people who either haven’t been or who aren’t incredibly familiar with the National Parks System. This blog is here to answer your questions, and to be your essential guide as you plan your first trip to the park.

(Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links)

The view from the Logan’s Pass Visitor Center area

Know Before You Go

First, let’s cover the basics. Glacier National Park is located in northern Montana, on the Canadian border. You can cross into Canada from Glacier easily, to explore the Waterton Lakes area. Glacier is located in the center of multiple small towns, including Babb and Whitefish, and bordered on one side by National Forest. On the east side of the park, you’ll find the Blackfeet Indian Reservation of Montana. Due to the proximity of these towns and the preserve, it is important to enter the park with respect.

To enter Glacier National Park for one week, you will be charged a $35 entrance fee per car, or $25 in the winter, when the Going to the Sun Road is closed. I highly recommend investing in an America the Beautiful Pass or other interagency pass if you plan on visiting more than 3 National Parks in one year.

Dogs are allowed in the park, but are not allowed on most trails. They can visit the park in front country campgrounds, picnic areas, roads, parking areas, and in boats. Dogs must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet, and cannot visit the backcountry, lakeshores, or inside visitor centers. If a road is closed to vehicles due to winter weather, it is considered part of the backcountry.

Along the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Wildlife

Glacier is home to some of the most abundant wildlife in the country. This Park is largely wilderness, which makes it the ideal place to spot incredible animals, such as deer, black bears, grizzly bears, mountain goats, big horned sheep, and elk. It is also home to more elusive animals like pikas, bats, lynx, mountain lions, and wolverines. This truly is the ideal place to spot wildlife in their natural habitat, and I was lucky enough to see mountain goats, black bears, grizzlies, deer, and big horned sheep during my visit. It’s important to view wildlife here safely, though, and remember, wildlife is wild!

It is not recommended that you visit the park without someone in your party carrying bear spray, which can be purchased at the visitor centers, and any shops in the park. Bear spray is a one-time use deterrent equivalent to a large canister of pepper spray. It is to be used to defend yourself against a bear (usually a grizzly), in the case of danger. Do not spray a bear who is minding their own business, and do not use bear spray indoors or on a person.

Two deer in my site at Rising Sun Campground

When should I visit?

The only time of year you will be able to experience all of Glacier National Park is in the summer. During the winter, the main roads are closed. Keep in mind that winter in northern Montana can range between late September and late June, and no one knows when the Going to The Sun Road will open for the summer season—it all depends on weather.

The best and most popular month to visit is July, since there is still a considerable amount of snow on the mountains. However, I visited in late August, and there was still plenty of beauty to be seen!

Wildflowers blooming in late August in Glacier National Park, MT

Should I stay in East or West Glacier?

This is one of the most common questions when it comes to planning a trip to Glacier National Park. So, which is better? East or West Glacier?

Glacier National Park is divided into three sections, and two of those sections—East and West Glacier—are connected by the Going to the Sun Road, which I’ll cover later in this post. When it comes to which side to visit, my answer is: visit both, if possible! If not, due to weather or time, I would say East Glacier is home to most of what people picture when they picture visiting Glacier National Park.

St. Mary’s Lake in East Glacier

West Glacier is largely forested, and won’t provide you with the views that East Glacier has. However, it is incredibly peaceful, and is a great place to stay if you’re looking for some quiet. It is also home to the only visitor center with legitimate cell service (Agpar Village), so if you need to call home, it might be worth making a stop here. As far as trails in West Glacier, they aren’t quite as impressive as the ones in East Glacier, but they are still worth checking out. The one that should definitely be on your list is Trail of the Cedars, a family friendly short trail that will allow you to get up close and personal with some of the Park’s largest flora.

East Glacier is home to many of the views people want to see during their trip, which is why I suggest heading here if you’re short on time. This is where you’ll find lakes, tall mountains, waterfalls, and views of the valley. You’ll also find a few more amenities in East Glacier, such as WiFi at the St. Mary’s Visitor Center, and a restaurant and motel at Rising Sun. This is also where you’ll find boat parking, and day parking for vehicles over 21 feet.

One of the many beautiful wooded views in West Glacier

What is Many Glacier?

Many Glacier is the third section of the park, and truly one of the most spectacular. To access Many Glacier, you definitely need a car, as the park shuttle doesn’t go here. During 2020, the road to Many Glacier will be under construction, so be prepared for traffic and limited parking. There is also the option to hop on a boat from East Glacier, but this is not ideal for budget travelers.

You will have to show your entrance receipt or pass again when you enter Many Glacier.

Many Glacier is home to the Park’s main hotel, as well as some of the most famous sites in the park: Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier. It’s important to remember that reaching these sites is not for everyone—you will be at elevation, and they are only accessed by trail.

Many Glacier is definitely one of my favorite sections of the park. It’s wild, largely untouched, and home to one of the last true glaciers in the continental US. This is also where I saw my first grizzly bears.

Grinnell Glacier, one of the most beautiful places in Many Glacier

What is the Going to The Sun Road?

The Going to The Sun Road is one of the key parts of a full experience in Glacier National Park. This 50 mile long road will take you from East Glacier to West Glacier, and is only fully accessible to vehicles less than 21 feet long and park shuttles.

Driving this road is not for everyone. It is incredibly windy in the alpine section, and usually crowded. To beat crowds, I suggest hitting the road as early as 6 am. Here, you’ll find overlooks, pullouts, and three visitor centers with unique views and wildlife viewing opportunities. I suggest stopping at each exhibit, and making a whole day out of this unique drive.

My number one tip for experiencing the Going to The Sun Road is to take the shuttle, specifically if you plan on stopping in Logan Pass, the highest elevation on the road. There will not be parking at Logan Pass, as it is the most popular spot in the park, and the site of the High Line trailhead. If you do take the shuttle, when riding from Logan Pass to East Glacier, make sure you sit at a far-right window at least once—this is the best way to get views into the deep valleys below, but definitely isn’t for anyone afraid of heights!

The view from the Going to The Sun Road, heading East

There are also private tours of the Going to The Sun Road. If you would like a guided tour, check out the Red Bus Tours, which are not affiliated with the National Park Service.

Please keep in mind that the road is closed during the winter season, which can range anytime between September and late June, so it is best to plan a summer visit.

The view from the Going to The Sun Road heading West at 6am in late August: A Valley Filled With Clouds

What can I see in the Park without hiking?

Glacier truly is a hiker’s paradise, but if you’re not a hiker, or aren’t physically able to do so, there is plenty you can still experience. The Going to The Sun Road is going to be your best bet for views comparable to those you might see on one of the Park’s longer hikes, and you can see Jackson Glacier from one of the first stops (coming from East Glacier). This is a great spot to stop and take pictures, but truly, any of the pullouts will do—Glacier’s views can’t be beat!

One of Glacier’s many waterfalls, as seen from a pullout along the Going to The Sun Road

What are some family friendly hikes?

If you are traveling with kids, rest assured that there are plenty of hikes with good views that are ideal for families. While the park is a hiker’s paradise, there are quite a few trails that are short, or have little elevation gain (or both!). The first one I’d suggest checking out is the previously mentioned Trail of the Cedars in West Glacier. This magical spot is perfect for families with really young kids, as it does have a boardwalk, allowing those with strollers to experience these magnificent trees.

Another great family friendly hike in Glacier National Park is St. Mary’s Falls. These glacial waterfalls run bright blue, and the entire hike to see all three falls is less than 3 miles (out and back).

The first waterfall you’ll encounter along the St. Mary’s Falls Trail

The last family friendly hike in Glacier that I’d highly recommend is a bit harder because it does gain some elevation, but the view is rewarding. At Logan Pass, you’ll find the Hidden Lake Overlook trailhead. This is the first section to a much longer hike (Hidden Lake), but this part is fairly easy for kids (I saw plenty on the trail). The trail is mostly made of man-made steps, and the peak will give you a spectacular view that can’t be beat. This is also where I saw my first ever mountain goats!

When traveling with kids, it’s important to give them the chance to learn and have fun. Pick up a Junior Ranger booklet at any visitor center, and help them earn a badge they can proudly wear throughout their trip.

View from the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Is visiting Logan Pass worth it?

Logan Pass is the highest point of elevation along the Going to The Sun Road, at over 6,000 feet. It truly is not something that should be skipped, and is key to having a full Glacier experience. Logan Pass is probably what I would consider the main visitor center, as it is exactly halfway between East and West Glacier. It is home to the Hidden Lake trailhead, as well as the High Line trailhead, and is integral to the shuttle system, as it is the only place you can transfer shuttles to get to West Glacier (the East Glacier shuttles are too large to go through the alpine section). Logan Pass is key to how the park runs, so make sure you don’t skip it!

In terms of that shuttle transfer, make sure you ask what time the last shuttles leave, and what time you should be back at Logan Pass to make it to East Glacier. The shuttles do stop running before sundown, and if you miss them, your only option will be to hitchhike back.

One of the many views near Logan Pass

What hikes should be on my list?

If you are a hiker, Glacier is the ideal park for you. Apart from backcountry experiences, which you can read more about on the park website, there are two main hikes that you cannot miss during your trip to Glacier.

Disclaimer: please do not attempt without bear spray.

Located in Many Glacier, you’ll find the Grinnell Glacier trail. This 12.8 mile round trip hike will take you through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the park, under a small waterfall, and to one of the last standing glaciers in the continental US. This is a very difficult hike, and it’s recommended that you start early in the morning to find parking and beat the crowds. If you’re not sure of your ability, there are paid ranger-guided hikes that will take you up this trail and to the glacier. This is a hike to try and do as soon as possible. The glacier is melting fast, and will continue to do so due to global warming.

For eco-friendly (and glacier friendly) gear, products, and apparel, check out Madera Outdoor, Eco Roots, and Wholesome Culture, three companies here to make a difference.

Top of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

The other must-hike trail in Glacier National Park is known as the High Line, which connects to The Loop. The High Line itself is a 16 mile out and back ridge hike that is not for the faint of heart—you will be on cliff edges for part of this hike! Most people connect the High Line to The Loop, a downhill trail that will make your trip an 11 mile one-way trip, rather than 16 miles out and back. The Loop, however, doesn’t have much to see, and will be 3 miles of steep downhill (so if you are prone to knee injuries, you might want to opt for the longer trip). The High Line is a spectacular hike with stunning views that will take you to a view of the other side of Grinnell Glacier. Here, you’ll see pine forests, towering mountains, and wildflowers. This is a very popular hike, and I would suggest heading out as early as possible. Since the trailhead is at Logan Pass, it is recommended that you take the first shuttle to the trail, rather than drive.

For either hike, make sure you have the right gear, including a rain layer.

One of the views you’ll catch on your way to Grinnell Glacier

Where should I stay?

There are tons of options when it comes to where to stay in Glacier National Park. One of the best ways to truly experience the park is to camp. While a few of the campgrounds to require reservations (Many Glacier, St. Mary’s, and Agpar), plenty are also available on a first come first served basis, and there are quite a few backcountry campgrounds available as well. On the west side, Avalanche is a good campground to stay in, due to its proximity to East Glacier. This is a great way to experience the West side of the Park at night, and have a shorter ride to the East side and Logan Pass during the day.

My favorite spot in Glacier is Rising Sun Campground. This campground is located in East Glacier, just 6 miles from the St. Mary’s Visitor Center. It is fantastic for solo travelers, and has its own shuttle stop. A stay at Rising Sun will also put you close to one of the park’s only restaurants, as well as a general store and pay showers. It’s also got one of the most unique sunrise views in the park, so make sure you get up early!

For camping in Glacier, I highly recommend using a 0 degree sleeping bag, no matter what time of year it is—it does get very cold at night. THIS is my favorite 0 degree bag, from Madera Outdoor.

There are also a few hotels and motels in the park, located at Rising Sun (East Glacier), Agpar Village (West Glacier), and Many Glacier. These are great options if you’re not into camping, or if it is simply too cold out to do so.

If you’d like to stay outside the park, there are options for that as well. On the West side of the park, you’ll find the town of Whitefish, Montana, an adorable little mountain town home to plenty of shops, restaurants, hotels, gas stations, and a hostel.

The sunrise in Rising Sun Campground

Glacier National Park is truly one of the treasures of the United States. No matter where you’re from, you should add it to your list, so that you too, can experience its incredible views, wildlife, and rapidly changing landscape. Glacier is unique, and is one of the largest and most popular National Parks in the United States, so let’s hit the road, and head out to the very north of Montana, to see what’s left of the United States’ true wilderness.

How to Have an Epic Adventure in Your Hometown

With every other post on social media being about the coronavirus right now, it’s easy to feel anxious about traveling and exploring new places, especially if your usual mode of transportation is an airplane. For those of us with the travel bug (or even those with just the springtime itch to travel), this time can be one of anxiety, frustration, and a feeling of being stuck. The thing is, you don’t have to go far to have an epic adventure, and likely, there are places not to far from where you live that you haven’t discovered yet. Having a “stay-cation” might just be the best way to fuel that adventure craving without getting on an airplane, and this is the best way to do it.

El Matador Beach, CA

Realize that anything can be an adventure

You don’t have to be new to a city to explore it. One of the most productive things I’ve done since I started traveling is realize that I don’t know everything about my hometown. It’s super easy to assume you have nothing left to see in or around your hometown, but the truth is, there are always hidden gems that you don’t know about yet. Check to see if there are any hiking trails you haven’t done before, or parks you haven’t been to. Museums are always changing out their exhibits, and restaurants always have new specials to try. Even something as small as going to a new ice cream shop can be an adventure if you approach it with the right mindset.

Visit a local state park! Lake Anita State Park, IA

Make a list of the things you GENUINELY love doing when you travel

When you’re on the go exploring new cities far from home, what is it that you always make sure you do? For example, some of my friends enjoy checking out a coffee shop right when they arrive in a new place. For cities, I like to explore the art scene and go to art museums. When I visit natural places, I like to learn about the geology and wildlife in the place I’m visiting and then go on a hike. When you realize what makes your passion for travel shine when you’re far from home, you’ll be able to figure out what you might love doing in your hometown.

I love being outdoors when I travel, but sometimes just a visit to a city park will suffice. Mount Tabor Park, OR

If you’re worried about cities, stick to the outdoors

This one simply has to do with the fears of getting sick that are circulating through social media. Not only is exploring nature incredibly good for your health (exercise and fresh air), but it will get you out of those dirty cities where germs are spread. There are tons of National and State Parks all over the world (yes, there are National Parks almost everywhere), so go hit your local one and appreciate the beauty of nature.

If you’re in the US, National Parks have different categories. Visit a National Historic Site, National Recreation Area, or National Monument. Each type offers a little something different, so if you’re not that into hiking, you’ll still be able to find something fun to do in your local NPS sites.

National Parks aren’t just for the outdoor enthusiast! Visit historic sites like Gettysburg National Military Park

Take a day trip

Normally, I’d say take a road trip, but since most people don’t live out of their vehicles, you’d need to stay in hotels, and frankly, I don’t think a lot of people are doing that during this moment in history. So, my best advice instead is to take day trips. Choose a place that’s only an hour or two away from your hometown, and make a point to go there and explore for a day. Two hours is plenty of time to get back in time to sleep in your own bed, but you won’t find yourself lacking in time spent at your destination. Of course, National Parks are great for day trips, but so are beaches, lakes, and even smaller cities, depending on what you’re interested in or what you feel comfortable doing.

Go to somewhere close by to where you are or where you live, such as your local National Park. Indiana Dunes National Park, IN

If you’re itching to explore, this strange point in time might be hitting you a little extra hard, but the truth is, there’s adventure in the everyday, even if that everyday is spent in your hometown. There are likely tons of places you haven’t explored right near where you live, so branch out, visit a local state park, and make anything an adventure.

10 Tips for Making it Through Long-Haul Road Trips

In my world, I do a lot of driving. In the past year, I’ve put about 20,000 miles under my wheels (in two separate vehicles of course), and while I like to keep my drives short (3-4 hours if possible), there are some days when you just can’t avoid that 6-12 hour long-haul. Doing drives like this to get to a destination can be grueling, especially if you’re solo, so whether you’re a full time vanlifer like myself, or a casual traveler looking to get that road trip fix in this spring, here are my best tips for surviving a day on the road.

Disclaimer: this post may contain affiliate links

My first tiny home, in Badlands National Park, SD

1: Be prepared for time zone shifts

If you’re traveling coast to coast (or in any vaguely horizontal direction, really, if you’re not just road tripping in the states), it’s super important to be prepared to shift in your time zone. This can affect your arrival time greatly, and will affect you more if you’re moving West to East, rather than East to West, since you’ll be arriving an hour later than planned. Keep this in mind when doing any type of long haul drive, so that you can plan accordingly for any way that this might throw off your plans.

Sedona, AZ (photographer: Brien @theotherground)

2: Snacks

Obviously, you can’t have a proper road trip without snacks. But, they’re even more important when you’re putting major miles behind you, especially if you’re driving solo. Calories keep you awake, and sometimes, you won’t want to stop for lunch, especially if you’re trying to make it to a destination by a certain time. I always keep a few snacks with me in the front of the van so that I don’t have to pull over to find something to eat every time I start getting tired.

A favorite healthy snack of mine lately is Bobo’s Oat Bars. They’re vegan, oat based, and super yummy! Pick yourself up a box HERE!

Bobo’s Oat Bars make fantastic road trip snacks

3: Water

As essential as snacks, water is something we often forget about while driving, especially if you’re driving solo. The thing is, being in the car all day singing along to the radio is incredibly dehydrating, and you’ll only get tired faster if your body needs something you aren’t giving it.

If there’s nowhere to fill up my reusable bottle, you’ll nearly always see me sipping on a Surfwater—bottled water packaged in the world’s most recyclable material: aluminum!

Surfwater aka the best water at El Matador Beach in Malibu (photographer: Alex @alx.vu)

4: An amazing playlist

Nearly as essential as food and water, having great, inspiring music to listen to is a must. I have about 10 very similar but very different road trip playlists that I recycle depending on my landscape, but my favorite artists to listen to on the road are: Lord Huron, The National Parks, Frenship, and Mogli. Oh, and the soundtrack from David Attenborough’s Our Planet. Don’t knock it ‘til you try it!

Here are some links to my current favorite Spotify playlists:

Vanlife

The Ultimate Roadtrip Soundtrack

Pacific Coast Highway

Our Planet

The van on Joshua Tree BLM land

5: Take Breaks

I cannot stress this one enough! If you’re traveling solo, please take breaks. This is what rest areas are for, and if there are none, gas stations and truck stops are amazing too. I recommend taking a break every 1-2 hours so that you can breathe, use the bathroom, change your music, make a sandwich, anything! Just take your eyes off the road and your hands off the wheel for 10 minutes. It’ll wake you up and make for a safer and less frustrating drive.

Bison on the road in Yellowstone National Park

6: Be aware of agricultural checkpoints

This might only be a thing in the United States—I’m not sure of agricultural laws in other countries—but if you are driving over state lines in the US, be aware of agricultural checkpoints. This is similar to how you have to declare certain items when you fly into a new country or back into the US. They will ask whether you have any fruits, veggies, plants, etc… in the vehicle, as exposing the local agriculture to those plants could affect the environment. As far as I remember, the only agricultural checkpoints in the continental US are at California entry points.

Hoyt Arboretum, OR. When you drive from Oregon to California, you will be asked if you’re carrying any produce.

7: Comfy clothes

This might go without saying, but driving in comfortable clothes will make all the difference. It’s also important to wear clothes for the weather later in the day. The other day, I drove 6 and a half hours from Tucson to San Diego and while it was freezing in the morning, as soon as I hit the Southern Californian desert near the Mexico border, it was hot and sunny! Considering the fact that my van has no AC, it was important that I drove in clothes made for warm weather so that I wouldn’t need to keep stopping to put on or take off a jacket.

One of my favorite brands of ethical and comfortable clothes is Wholesome Culture. They use organic cotton, water based ink, and donate money to animal sanctuaries for every purchase made. Check them out HERE!

Sporting my favorite Wholesome Culture T-shirt on a hike through Mammoth Cave National Park, KY. It says “There is no Planet B.”

8: Keep an eye on your cell service!

So often during long-hauls we drive into areas with no cell service without realizing it. Especially if you’re unfamiliar with the area, it’s crucial to either download your maps before, carry a paper map (for really remote areas like Montana, Canada, Alaska, and even parts of Utah/Nevada), or make sure that you do not exit your already functioning navigation. As long as you start your navigation in either Google Maps or Apple Maps, it will keep you on track even when you do lose service, but as soon as you exit, you won’t be able to just pull it right back up if you’ve got no bars. When I was driving from Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada to Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah, there was no service for the first hour of my drive, and being my second day on the road, this was incredibly stressful. Make sure you know the general direction that you’re going, and if you can find a Pilot or Flying J truck stop (in the states), go in and ask if they have WiFi so you can download a map—they usually do!

Glacier National Park, MT: one of the most remote places you can drive to. Definitely download your maps before leaving West Glacier!

9: Get off the highway and explore

If you’re not in any rush, why make it a long-haul drive in the first place? Drive in your direction until you find something interesting and then make a little detour. You never know what you might find, and there’s always the chance of an unexpected adventure. Long-haul drives are grueling and unless you have a time limit, unnecessary. Let yourself explore more instead.

One of the best detours I’ve ever made! The Salton Sea, CA. Learn more about this place HERE!

10: Take it all in…

It’s so easy when you’re road tripping to make it about the destination. But the truth is, the journey is often the most fun and beautiful part. Some of my favorite experiences on the road, and my most important revelations have come from the actual driving, not the arriving at my destination. It’s so important to take time to realize the landscapes you’re driving through, the lives of the people in the towns you’re passing by, and really, how small the world is when you really think about it.

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA

The world is far more connected than we like to think. Nothing is as far away as our maps suggest—really, it’s just one 12 hour drive. Take the time to appreciate the distance, it will make all the difference when it comes to surviving that long drive (oh, and of course, all the other stuff too).