Navigating Zion’s New Angel’s Landing Permit System

Zion National Park is one of the most popular National Parks in the National Park System, and Angel’s Landing is one of the most popular trails in the park. Starting on April 1, 2022, hikers are going to be required to have a permit to hike Angel’s Landing, which is an attempt to help increase safety on the trail, as well as promote further conservation efforts of this landscape.

Angel’s Landing is a hike that requires technical skill to complete, but because of its popularity, many people end up getting injured or worse while attempting this hike. The hike starts off with 27 steep switchbacks for a mile, and then turns into a portion of the trail where you need to use chains that are installed on the sides of the trail so that you can ascend the rest of the way. The chains are there to help you pull yourself up the rock, but also to prevent falling because there are steep drop offs on one and sometimes both sides of the trail. The trail does get extremely congested, and requires groups to take turns ascending and descending the trail as they hike. The entire hike is about 5 miles long, and gains about 1,500 feet in elevation on the ascent.

Understanding the new permit system

This is going to be the first year that Angel’s Landing has a permit requirement for hiking. For this year at least, the National Park Service (NPS) is only going to issue permits via a lottery system, similar to Yosemite’s Half Dome permit system.

At the top of Angel’s Landing, surrounded by the usual crowds

You can apply in advance for permits by choosing a few dates you would like to hike Angel’s Landing. You can apply for advance permits via recreation.gov or choose to enter the daily lottery instead.

The Day-before Lottery is similar to the advance lottery, but will only be an application for people trying to do the hike the day after they apply. You have to apply the day before you want to hike, between noon and 3pm Mountain Standard Time.

No matter which lottery you choose to enter to try and score a permit, it does cost $6 to apply for a permit. The good news is, that money goes back to the NPS to keep places like this going!

Getting on the trail

In the busy season, you will need to take a free shuttle to the Grotto, which is where your trailhead will be. A ranger might check your permit here before you start the trail, or they might check for permits at Scouts Lookout, at the top of the switchbacks.

You can still hike to Scouts Lookout without a permit.

It’s recommended that you have proper gear for this hike. As someone who has summited Angel’s Landing twice, I recommend hiking boots, a backpack (so you can keep your hands free), and a water bladder that holds at least 2 liters of water. In the summers, you’re going to want to carry about 2 liters per person for this hike.

Now, you’re ready to hit the trail! Make sure that you leave no trace, be safe, and have fun!

Learn more at NPS.gov

Top 5 Most Dog Friendly National Parks

We love traveling with our furry friends, but as a lot of people who like to travel in the US know, most National Parks aren’t super dog friendly. There are a few we’ve found since traveling with our border collie, Lassen, that we’ve loved due to the dog friendly trails. It’s made it easier to travel with him, and we all have so much fun getting to see the sights! These are our top 5 dog friendly National Parks.

Don’t miss the BARK Ranger program at many of these parks—a goal to educate dog owners on where their dogs can and can’t go in the park. Parks with BARK Ranger programs are specified below.

Great Sand Dunes, CO

If you’ve been following a while, you’ll know that we loved Great Sand Dunes National Park. This is a fairly large park, and the whole main area of the sand dunes is completely dog friendly. Your dog has to be on a leash, but we don’t mind! Lassen was able to climb to the top of High Dune with us and run with us down the sides of the dunes. We loved how dog friendly this park was, and so did Lassen!

White Sands, NM

White Sands National Park, NM is very similar to Great Sand Dunes. Dogs are allowed all over the dunes as long as they’re on a leash, which made this the perfect sunrise park for us. We love being able to take Lassen along on adventures, so it was great to not have to leave him in the car to experience the park. White Sands is also part of the BARK Ranger program.

Petrified Forest, AZ

While Petrified Forest is a small park, and one of the least visited, it’s also one of the most dog friendly. Lassen was able to come everywhere with us. Most of the trails in this park are paved, so as long as your dog is on a leash and stays with you on the trail, they’re allowed to accompany you throughout your entire trip through the park. Petrified Forest also has a BARK Ranger program where you can get a free treat for your dog.

Olympic, WA

Olympic was actually the park that coined the BARK Ranger program! Olympic is a huge park, and while not all of it is dog friendly, many of the beaches are! This was where Lassen first saw the ocean. Our favorite beaches to take our dog to were Rialto and Ruby Beach. Your dog is also allowed around Crescent Lake and on the Spruce Railroad Trail.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO

While your dog can’t hike down into the canyon with you, this is the perfect National Park to take your dog to if you’re a sight-seeing type of traveler. Dogs are allowed to join you at all of the park lookouts, even the ones that are unpaved. Lassen and I had a great time driving to each viewpoint while Jared did a bigger hike into the canyon.

It’s unfortunately very hard to get a picture of a dog with a canyon you have to get very close to the railings of to see. But I promise he loved it!

Honorable Mentions:

City of Rocks National Reserve, ID

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, MI

Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, NE

Where To Go As a First Time Visitor: Rockies

The Rocky Mountain States hold some of the highest elevation in the country, and some of the most beautiful landscapes. From sprawling mountains, to deep thermal pools, this section of the country is on so many people’s bucket lists. From Colorado to Montana, we’re going to explore exactly where you should head if you’ve never been to the area before, so that you can experience the best the landscape has to offer.

Glacier National Park, MT

Colorado: Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado is easily one of my favorite states. There is so much to do, and so many beautiful places to see, but for a first time visitor looking to get the most out of a visit, I’d say don’t miss Rocky Mountain National Park. The Rockies are located in Northern Colorado, and have some of the highest elevation roads in the country. These mountains are home to bears, moose, and more, and are full of winding trails, rivers, pine trees, and everything else you picture when you think of Colorado. Stay in Estes Park and explore the Stanley Hotel (where they filmed The Shining), and the rest of those mountain town vibes when you’re not in the National Park.

Things to do:

·       Go to the Alpine Visitor Center and hike the Alpine Ridge Trail (12,000 feet)

·       Go to Bear Lake

·       Hike Hallett Peak (for advanced hikers only due to the elevation)

·       Do the Scenic Drive

When visiting Rocky Mountain National Park, be aware of the elevation and oxygen levels. Elevation sickness is not uncommon here, so don’t attempt any hikes that are out of your athletic ability.

Wyoming: Yellowstone National Park

There’s no question: you cannot go to Wyoming for the first time and not go to Yellowstone. Yellowstone is not just the National Park—it’s all the surrounding mountain towns, and it’s become a vacation destination. Yellowstone is known for its thermal pools, abundant wildlife, and the famous Yellowstone Falls. There is so much to do just in this park and its surrounding areas, so I’d suggest planning at least a 4 day trip, perhaps even a week if you can take the time.

Things to do:

·       Go see the popular spots: Grand Prismatic Spring and Old Faithful

·       Spot wildlife in the Lamar Valley

·       Walk the boardwalk at the Norris Geyser Basin

·       Go to Artists Point and take photos of Yellowstone Falls

Like at any National Park, please respect the nature when visiting Yellowstone. Stay on the boardwalks, don’t climb over guardrails, and please, DO NOT APPROACH WILDLIFE.

Montana: Glacier National Park

I have a whole post you can read about Glacier, but there truly is no better place to visit if you’re visiting Montana for the first time. Glacier is an incredible landscape full of wildlife, mountains, and of course, glaciers. This national park is also home to the famous Going to the Sun Road, which connects east and west Glacier on one of the most beautiful scenic roads in the country.

Things to do:

·       Hike to Grinnell Glacier (hard)

·       Hike to the Hidden Lake Overlook (easy)

·       Drive the Going to the Sun Road (not open to vehicles over 21 feet long)

Learn more about Glacier at the link below:

The Rocky Mountains are an incredible landscape full of beautiful national parks and tons of wildlife. This is an area I could spend months exploring. Not sure where to start when planning your trip? Head to the shop to schedule a phone call with me and allow me to plan your trip for you!

City of Rocks: Idaho's Unexpected Dog Paradise

Last week, we had the privilege of exploring, in full, one of the most beautiful states in the country: Idaho. Idaho is incredibly underrated, so I went on a mission to find the most beautiful places in the state. We explored the Sawtooths, saw Shoshone Falls, and even witnessed a meteor fall over the highway during one of our drives, but the one place that truly stands out to me when it comes to Idaho is a small natural reserve right on the Utah state line called City of Rocks.

City of Rocks is a National Park Service run site that is known for its rock climbing, historical significance, and giant natural features. But on top of that, it is also one of the most dog friendly NPS sites in the country. Dogs are allowed everywhere with their owners here, as long as they are kept on a leash no longer than 6 feet. So this means that all hiking trails and rock climbing areas are ones where your pup can hang out with you.

This was such a relief to us. We love the National Parks, but it’s hard to visit them with a dog sometimes. We find ourselves skipping a lot just because we don’t want to leave our border collie, Lassen, in the van, especially during the summer when it’s so hot. We were more than happy to hike with him on leash during our time there because we feel that it’s a privilege that he’s allowed at all.

City of Rocks quickly became a super memorable place for me, and it’s one that I think everyone should add to their western US bucket list. So, tell me, after you read this post, has Idaho made your must-see list yet?

The Twin Sisters

A little bit about Leave No Trace

Before visiting any park, it’s important to remember our Leave No Trace Principles. More detail on this can be found in these two articles: HERE and HERE, but the general rule is to leave the place better than you found it and respect those around you. That respect also goes for the park itself, and the rules they have in place. While this is a dog friendly park, that doesn’t mean your dog can run the place. The largest violation of rules and LNT principles the park encounters is people letting their dogs off leash. It’s important to respect their leash rule, and keep your dog under control, so that dogs can continue to be allowed in the park in the future.

View from the visitor center at City of Rocks National Reserve

A City of Geology

City of Rocks is a fairly small park that is often explored in conjunction with its sister park: Castle Rocks State Park. City of Rocks is free to visit, but is made up of a long, unpaved loop road that will take you to all of the sites. Camping is available in the park, but they do take reservations (so check recreation.gov before visiting if you plan on camping in the park).

The park is made up of endless iconic rock features, the most noticeable being the Twin Sisters. While they are not really twins (the one on the left is much older), they are still a must see within the park, and one of the best places to stop for a photo or lunch.

As you drive through the park, you’ll also come across what is known as their “Inner City.” This is where you’ll drive through the most rock formations, and where you can stop and see rocks such as Parking Lot Rock and the Window Arch.

This park is known for its climbing culture, so if you’re a climber, plan on spending a few days out here, weather permitting. With endless routes to climb, you’re sure to be in climbing heaven.

Window Arch in City of Rocks National Reserve

A Deep History

City of Rocks is home to over 6 miles of the historic California Trail, upon which over 200,000 people traveled between the times of the Gold Rush and the building of the Transcontinental Railroad. This place was a landmark for those passing through, and throughout the park, you can see their signatures still staining the rock in axle grease, so keep an eye out as you drive the park’s loop, and see which names you can find throughout your trip.

(disclaimer: please do not add your name to the rocks. It is disrespectful to the park’s history and violates park rules and Leave No Trace guidelines. If you cannot respect the place you are visiting, please choose to visit virtually instead).

Putting Idaho on the Map

Idaho technically does not have any National Parks with Park status. It holds a small sliver of Yellowstone, but as most of the park lies in Wyoming, it’s hard to give Idaho its credit. That being said, Idaho has so many beautiful NPS sites that hold Monument or Reserve status, such as City of Rocks, Craters of the Moon, and Hagerman Fossil Beds. Idaho is full of natural wonders, and is so much more than just a farming state. If it isn’t on your list yet, it absolutely should be.

Axle Grease Signatures on the rocks

Need help planning a road trip through the West? I’ve been road tripping for years, and I’d love to answer your questions directly and plan your trip for you. To get on the phone with me and discuss your trip, head over to my Patreon and sign up for at least one month of road trip resources (plus you get a pretty cool sticker just for joining).

How To Visit A National Park With Your Dog

One of the largest misconceptions about domestic adventure travel in the US is that dogs are not allowed in National Parks. National Parks are public land that is run by the National Park Service, meaning, they have a lot more restrictions that other types of public land that are run by the Bureau of Land Management or US Forest Service. Because of the fact that these restrictions are fairly well known by visitors, it’s often rumored that you can’t bring your furry friend along on your adventure. But, that couldn’t be less true! Dogs are absolutely allowed in National Parks, it’s just a matter of finding out exactly where they’re allowed during your visit.

Hanging out at Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park

Why are there restrictions on pets in the parks?

There are a few reasons for the restrictions on dogs in National Parks, but the main one is that dogs are not part of the natural environment. Their presence has the power to disrupt the ecosystem because they can pollute areas with their poop, eat plants, and scare animals off that would normally be present in an area. For this reason, it’s really important to respect these regulations so that we can preserve these areas for future visitors. That being said, there are areas in each park where dogs are allowed, so let’s explore those areas!

Exploring Crater Lake National Park in Oregon

Where are dogs normally allowed in National Parks?

In pretty much all parks, you can guarantee that dogs are allowed in parking lots and picnic areas. In some parks, there are dog friendly trails to hike, so check each park’s website before visiting. They are often allowed on dirt roads, and can enjoy viewpoints with their owners.

To find the pet friendly areas in each park on the park websites, go to Plan Your Visit > Basic Information > Pets.

Taking a walk along a dirt road in Mount Rainier National Park

What parks are more dog friendly than others?

Some National Parks are more dog friendly than others. The two most popular dog friendly parks are Acadia and North Cascades, but there are quite a few that you can take your furry friend to when you really do your research. Zion has a dog friendly trail, and Olympic has dog friendly beaches. Crater Lake is a great option since most of the park is only accessible by car.

It’s also worth looking into visiting National Park Service sites that don’t have National Park designation, such as monuments, preserves, and recreation areas. The Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area has dog friendly beaches, and City of Rocks National Preserve is known as a dog friendly park. This will allow you to use that National Park pass you love, while letting your dog tag along.

Taking a walk near the visitor center in Crater Lake National Park

What is the Bark Ranger Program?

Similar to the Junior Ranger Program, the Bark Ranger program is a free program for all the fur babies who come along on a National Park adventure. This program allows dogs and their owners to learn exactly where their dog can and can’t go in the park, and allows your dog to get sworn in as an official Bark Ranger. They will also receive a special Bark Ranger badge to wear on their collar or leash and take home as a fun souvenir.

Watching the sunset in Olympic National Park: the first park to create their Bark Ranger Program

Visiting a National Park with your dog will be a different experience than you’re used to, but it doesn’t have to be a boring one. There truly is so much you can still see and do with your dog to make it a worthwhile visit, and once you learn the rules, you’ll get to see the Parks through your dog’s eyes, which can be magical in its own way.

#RecreateResponsibly and Irresponsible Tourism

Since quarantine began back in March, many full time vagabonds, outdoorsy folks, guides, climbers, etc… have been begging for campgrounds, trails, and parks to reopen. And now that they are, many of us are finding that things are not turning out the way we imagined. The outdoors have always been my safe space, my place for finding myself close to nature, dipping my toes in rivers, and hugging trees. I live and breath Leave No Trace, and have personally told people in National Parks to stop littering, or nicely explained to them why they should stay on the trail. As lovers of the outdoors, it’s what we do, to keep these places beautiful, and the way we found them (or better).

Death Valley National Park, CA

But since lockdown began in early spring, and with US citizens on further lockdown from the rest of the world, many people are taking to the road and exploring their own country for the first time during the summer months when they would normally be traveling overseas. This has lead to an influx of visitors in National Parks, National Forests, State Parks, trails, and even dispersed camping areas that full time vanlifers and nomads depend upon. This makes for a complicated decision. Of course I’m all for more people getting to explore the outdoors, and learning to see value in these places, but the problem is, it is clear that that value is not being seen by these visitors. Many of these people are leaving piles of trash that the National Parks can’t clean up due to understaffing, using the restroom in places they shouldn’t (leading to a shutdown of National Forest dispersed camping… again), and simply overcrowding areas that are normally a peaceful getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ

What is #RecreateResponsibly?

The hashtag #recreateresponsibly popped up amongst National Parks, outdoor gear companies, and outdoor enthusiasts a few months ago, when parks were starting to open up again, with the goal of teaching people how to recreate in a world where COVID exists. However, many of the suggestions that went along with the original Recreate Responsibly list mirrored those already reflected in the popular Leave No Trace list that outdoor enthusiasts follow. The new suggestions however, included choosing less crowded destinations, keeping 6 feet from other people, and working to make sure that you are maintaining a healthy environment for the communities you might be visiting.

We are all familiar with social distancing, but the amount of people me and other outdoor lovers have been witnessing at normally empty spaces is a huge problem. Why is this a problem, you might be asking. Well, read on.

Sequoia National Park, CA

Why People Are Ruining the Outdoors

Crowds are something we all have to deal with, especially in the summer months. But the fact is, more people = more litter, more poop (sorry, but it’s true), and less of an ability to social distance.

It’s okay to be new to the outdoors. In fact, I welcome it, as long as you are willing to learn to respect it. There is a very specific etiquette that comes with visiting outdoor spaces, and while most people might not already be familiar with it, it’s easy to learn and execute.

The problem is, people are treating these places like Disneyland. They’re bringing in and leaving trash, they’re creating crowds and lines, and they’re approaching animals like they are visiting a petting zoo. It’s important to remember that these places are wild. Incredibly wild. They don’t follow the rules of your domesticated world, so it’s important to learn to respect them, so that you can get the most out of them.

When people don’t respect these places (and each other while visiting them), it makes it easy for the government to decide that they need to close them down again, thus making things more difficult for those of us who actually depend on them to survive.

Yellowstone National Park, WY

What is Leave No Trace?

I actually have a whole blog post about Leave No Trace (LNT) principles, so I’ll make this quick! Leave No Trace is the guidelines for recreating in the outdoors, and it is what #recreateresponsibly is based on. There are 7 LNT principles:

1: Plan ahead and prepare

2: Travel and camp on durable surfaces

3: Dispose of waste properly

4: Leave what you find

5: Minimize campfire impacts

6: Respect Wildlife

7: Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

And to add a few for COVID times: Wear a mask when in a crowded area, stay 6 feet away from others when possible and safe (ie: it wouldn’t involve anyone falling off a cliff), and avoid crowded parks and trails if you can. However, these lie in the “respect others” category in my opinion.

When people don’t follow these guidelines, it makes it really hard for everyone to enjoy the outdoors. Because of course, these are public lands—no one is forbidden from exploring them—however, it is important that you treat these places with respect, so that they can stay to be explored by others for years to come.

Congaree National Park, SC

Why #RecreateResponsibly is Being Aimed at the Wrong Crowd

Answer these questions: are you an outdoorsy person? Do you follow outdoor brands such as REI, Backcountry, Merrell, or Patagonia on Instagram? Do you follow any National Parks on Instagram?

If you answered YES to any of these questions, likely, you’ve heard the term Recreate Responsibly thrown around in your internet world in recent months. You might even be getting tired of hearing it because you know not to litter and to stick to less popular trails. You even have local secrets that have always been empty… until now. And the reason for that is, Recreate Responsibly is being aimed at the wrong group of people.

Indiana Dunes National Park, IN

The people who need to learn to recreate responsibly are those who are new to the outdoors, those who have never visited a National Park before, those who are venturing out for the first time. We welcome these people in our favorite outdoor spaces. I firmly believe that it’s hard to think about preserving our environment when you don’t have a connection with the outdoors, so welcoming newcomers is something that I’m all for—it will teach them that nature has something for them to love. But without the proper education, it’s hard for people to treat these places any different than if they were visiting a local zoo.

When you enter a National Park, you are often handed a map, and sometimes a flyer with Park information. Would it be so hard to add the LNT principles to that flyer? Would it help the problem? And what about National Forests, BLM Land, and the backcountry? These are questions that I’m not sure I have the answer to, but it’s important to consider them. More education is absolutely needed when it comes to keeping our wild spaces wild, and therefore, keeping them accessible to both those who have always loved them, and those who are discovering them for the first time.

Badlands National Park, SD

If you are planning your first trip to a National Park, and want some help getting prepared for your trip so that you too can #RecreateResponsibly, reach out to me on Patreon. I offer trip planning services that can help you to be prepared for anything the outdoors might throw your way. Click the button below to sign up so we can start chatting!

A Complete Guide to Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park in Montana is truly one of those treasures that can’t be missed in the Lower 48. From its sprawling landscapes to its abundant wildlife, there’s nothing not to love about Glacier. It’s truly my favorite place in the entire contiguous United States. For people who haven’t visited, it often tops their National Parks bucket list, and for those who have been, it’s often a destination they’re trying desperately to revisit. Glacier National Park is a special place, and one that should be visited with care, to protect its rapidly changing natural landscape.

Because Glacier is such a large National Park, with multiple sections, I’ve found that it’s a bit intimidating to people who either haven’t been or who aren’t incredibly familiar with the National Parks System. This blog is here to answer your questions, and to be your essential guide as you plan your first trip to the park.

(Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links)

The view from the Logan’s Pass Visitor Center area

Know Before You Go

First, let’s cover the basics. Glacier National Park is located in northern Montana, on the Canadian border. You can cross into Canada from Glacier easily, to explore the Waterton Lakes area. Glacier is located in the center of multiple small towns, including Babb and Whitefish, and bordered on one side by National Forest. On the east side of the park, you’ll find the Blackfeet Indian Reservation of Montana. Due to the proximity of these towns and the preserve, it is important to enter the park with respect.

To enter Glacier National Park for one week, you will be charged a $35 entrance fee per car, or $25 in the winter, when the Going to the Sun Road is closed. I highly recommend investing in an America the Beautiful Pass or other interagency pass if you plan on visiting more than 3 National Parks in one year.

Dogs are allowed in the park, but are not allowed on most trails. They can visit the park in front country campgrounds, picnic areas, roads, parking areas, and in boats. Dogs must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet, and cannot visit the backcountry, lakeshores, or inside visitor centers. If a road is closed to vehicles due to winter weather, it is considered part of the backcountry.

Along the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Wildlife

Glacier is home to some of the most abundant wildlife in the country. This Park is largely wilderness, which makes it the ideal place to spot incredible animals, such as deer, black bears, grizzly bears, mountain goats, big horned sheep, and elk. It is also home to more elusive animals like pikas, bats, lynx, mountain lions, and wolverines. This truly is the ideal place to spot wildlife in their natural habitat, and I was lucky enough to see mountain goats, black bears, grizzlies, deer, and big horned sheep during my visit. It’s important to view wildlife here safely, though, and remember, wildlife is wild!

It is not recommended that you visit the park without someone in your party carrying bear spray, which can be purchased at the visitor centers, and any shops in the park. Bear spray is a one-time use deterrent equivalent to a large canister of pepper spray. It is to be used to defend yourself against a bear (usually a grizzly), in the case of danger. Do not spray a bear who is minding their own business, and do not use bear spray indoors or on a person.

Two deer in my site at Rising Sun Campground

When should I visit?

The only time of year you will be able to experience all of Glacier National Park is in the summer. During the winter, the main roads are closed. Keep in mind that winter in northern Montana can range between late September and late June, and no one knows when the Going to The Sun Road will open for the summer season—it all depends on weather.

The best and most popular month to visit is July, since there is still a considerable amount of snow on the mountains. However, I visited in late August, and there was still plenty of beauty to be seen!

Wildflowers blooming in late August in Glacier National Park, MT

Should I stay in East or West Glacier?

This is one of the most common questions when it comes to planning a trip to Glacier National Park. So, which is better? East or West Glacier?

Glacier National Park is divided into three sections, and two of those sections—East and West Glacier—are connected by the Going to the Sun Road, which I’ll cover later in this post. When it comes to which side to visit, my answer is: visit both, if possible! If not, due to weather or time, I would say East Glacier is home to most of what people picture when they picture visiting Glacier National Park.

St. Mary’s Lake in East Glacier

West Glacier is largely forested, and won’t provide you with the views that East Glacier has. However, it is incredibly peaceful, and is a great place to stay if you’re looking for some quiet. It is also home to the only visitor center with legitimate cell service (Agpar Village), so if you need to call home, it might be worth making a stop here. As far as trails in West Glacier, they aren’t quite as impressive as the ones in East Glacier, but they are still worth checking out. The one that should definitely be on your list is Trail of the Cedars, a family friendly short trail that will allow you to get up close and personal with some of the Park’s largest flora.

East Glacier is home to many of the views people want to see during their trip, which is why I suggest heading here if you’re short on time. This is where you’ll find lakes, tall mountains, waterfalls, and views of the valley. You’ll also find a few more amenities in East Glacier, such as WiFi at the St. Mary’s Visitor Center, and a restaurant and motel at Rising Sun. This is also where you’ll find boat parking, and day parking for vehicles over 21 feet.

One of the many beautiful wooded views in West Glacier

What is Many Glacier?

Many Glacier is the third section of the park, and truly one of the most spectacular. To access Many Glacier, you definitely need a car, as the park shuttle doesn’t go here. During 2020, the road to Many Glacier will be under construction, so be prepared for traffic and limited parking. There is also the option to hop on a boat from East Glacier, but this is not ideal for budget travelers.

You will have to show your entrance receipt or pass again when you enter Many Glacier.

Many Glacier is home to the Park’s main hotel, as well as some of the most famous sites in the park: Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier. It’s important to remember that reaching these sites is not for everyone—you will be at elevation, and they are only accessed by trail.

Many Glacier is definitely one of my favorite sections of the park. It’s wild, largely untouched, and home to one of the last true glaciers in the continental US. This is also where I saw my first grizzly bears.

Grinnell Glacier, one of the most beautiful places in Many Glacier

What is the Going to The Sun Road?

The Going to The Sun Road is one of the key parts of a full experience in Glacier National Park. This 50 mile long road will take you from East Glacier to West Glacier, and is only fully accessible to vehicles less than 21 feet long and park shuttles.

Driving this road is not for everyone. It is incredibly windy in the alpine section, and usually crowded. To beat crowds, I suggest hitting the road as early as 6 am. Here, you’ll find overlooks, pullouts, and three visitor centers with unique views and wildlife viewing opportunities. I suggest stopping at each exhibit, and making a whole day out of this unique drive.

My number one tip for experiencing the Going to The Sun Road is to take the shuttle, specifically if you plan on stopping in Logan Pass, the highest elevation on the road. There will not be parking at Logan Pass, as it is the most popular spot in the park, and the site of the High Line trailhead. If you do take the shuttle, when riding from Logan Pass to East Glacier, make sure you sit at a far-right window at least once—this is the best way to get views into the deep valleys below, but definitely isn’t for anyone afraid of heights!

The view from the Going to The Sun Road, heading East

There are also private tours of the Going to The Sun Road. If you would like a guided tour, check out the Red Bus Tours, which are not affiliated with the National Park Service.

Please keep in mind that the road is closed during the winter season, which can range anytime between September and late June, so it is best to plan a summer visit.

The view from the Going to The Sun Road heading West at 6am in late August: A Valley Filled With Clouds

What can I see in the Park without hiking?

Glacier truly is a hiker’s paradise, but if you’re not a hiker, or aren’t physically able to do so, there is plenty you can still experience. The Going to The Sun Road is going to be your best bet for views comparable to those you might see on one of the Park’s longer hikes, and you can see Jackson Glacier from one of the first stops (coming from East Glacier). This is a great spot to stop and take pictures, but truly, any of the pullouts will do—Glacier’s views can’t be beat!

One of Glacier’s many waterfalls, as seen from a pullout along the Going to The Sun Road

What are some family friendly hikes?

If you are traveling with kids, rest assured that there are plenty of hikes with good views that are ideal for families. While the park is a hiker’s paradise, there are quite a few trails that are short, or have little elevation gain (or both!). The first one I’d suggest checking out is the previously mentioned Trail of the Cedars in West Glacier. This magical spot is perfect for families with really young kids, as it does have a boardwalk, allowing those with strollers to experience these magnificent trees.

Another great family friendly hike in Glacier National Park is St. Mary’s Falls. These glacial waterfalls run bright blue, and the entire hike to see all three falls is less than 3 miles (out and back).

The first waterfall you’ll encounter along the St. Mary’s Falls Trail

The last family friendly hike in Glacier that I’d highly recommend is a bit harder because it does gain some elevation, but the view is rewarding. At Logan Pass, you’ll find the Hidden Lake Overlook trailhead. This is the first section to a much longer hike (Hidden Lake), but this part is fairly easy for kids (I saw plenty on the trail). The trail is mostly made of man-made steps, and the peak will give you a spectacular view that can’t be beat. This is also where I saw my first ever mountain goats!

When traveling with kids, it’s important to give them the chance to learn and have fun. Pick up a Junior Ranger booklet at any visitor center, and help them earn a badge they can proudly wear throughout their trip.

View from the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail

Is visiting Logan Pass worth it?

Logan Pass is the highest point of elevation along the Going to The Sun Road, at over 6,000 feet. It truly is not something that should be skipped, and is key to having a full Glacier experience. Logan Pass is probably what I would consider the main visitor center, as it is exactly halfway between East and West Glacier. It is home to the Hidden Lake trailhead, as well as the High Line trailhead, and is integral to the shuttle system, as it is the only place you can transfer shuttles to get to West Glacier (the East Glacier shuttles are too large to go through the alpine section). Logan Pass is key to how the park runs, so make sure you don’t skip it!

In terms of that shuttle transfer, make sure you ask what time the last shuttles leave, and what time you should be back at Logan Pass to make it to East Glacier. The shuttles do stop running before sundown, and if you miss them, your only option will be to hitchhike back.

One of the many views near Logan Pass

What hikes should be on my list?

If you are a hiker, Glacier is the ideal park for you. Apart from backcountry experiences, which you can read more about on the park website, there are two main hikes that you cannot miss during your trip to Glacier.

Disclaimer: please do not attempt without bear spray.

Located in Many Glacier, you’ll find the Grinnell Glacier trail. This 12.8 mile round trip hike will take you through some of the most beautiful landscapes in the park, under a small waterfall, and to one of the last standing glaciers in the continental US. This is a very difficult hike, and it’s recommended that you start early in the morning to find parking and beat the crowds. If you’re not sure of your ability, there are paid ranger-guided hikes that will take you up this trail and to the glacier. This is a hike to try and do as soon as possible. The glacier is melting fast, and will continue to do so due to global warming.

For eco-friendly (and glacier friendly) gear, products, and apparel, check out Madera Outdoor, Eco Roots, and Wholesome Culture, three companies here to make a difference.

Top of the Grinnell Glacier Trail

The other must-hike trail in Glacier National Park is known as the High Line, which connects to The Loop. The High Line itself is a 16 mile out and back ridge hike that is not for the faint of heart—you will be on cliff edges for part of this hike! Most people connect the High Line to The Loop, a downhill trail that will make your trip an 11 mile one-way trip, rather than 16 miles out and back. The Loop, however, doesn’t have much to see, and will be 3 miles of steep downhill (so if you are prone to knee injuries, you might want to opt for the longer trip). The High Line is a spectacular hike with stunning views that will take you to a view of the other side of Grinnell Glacier. Here, you’ll see pine forests, towering mountains, and wildflowers. This is a very popular hike, and I would suggest heading out as early as possible. Since the trailhead is at Logan Pass, it is recommended that you take the first shuttle to the trail, rather than drive.

For either hike, make sure you have the right gear, including a rain layer.

One of the views you’ll catch on your way to Grinnell Glacier

Where should I stay?

There are tons of options when it comes to where to stay in Glacier National Park. One of the best ways to truly experience the park is to camp. While a few of the campgrounds to require reservations (Many Glacier, St. Mary’s, and Agpar), plenty are also available on a first come first served basis, and there are quite a few backcountry campgrounds available as well. On the west side, Avalanche is a good campground to stay in, due to its proximity to East Glacier. This is a great way to experience the West side of the Park at night, and have a shorter ride to the East side and Logan Pass during the day.

My favorite spot in Glacier is Rising Sun Campground. This campground is located in East Glacier, just 6 miles from the St. Mary’s Visitor Center. It is fantastic for solo travelers, and has its own shuttle stop. A stay at Rising Sun will also put you close to one of the park’s only restaurants, as well as a general store and pay showers. It’s also got one of the most unique sunrise views in the park, so make sure you get up early!

For camping in Glacier, I highly recommend using a 0 degree sleeping bag, no matter what time of year it is—it does get very cold at night. THIS is my favorite 0 degree bag, from Madera Outdoor.

There are also a few hotels and motels in the park, located at Rising Sun (East Glacier), Agpar Village (West Glacier), and Many Glacier. These are great options if you’re not into camping, or if it is simply too cold out to do so.

If you’d like to stay outside the park, there are options for that as well. On the West side of the park, you’ll find the town of Whitefish, Montana, an adorable little mountain town home to plenty of shops, restaurants, hotels, gas stations, and a hostel.

The sunrise in Rising Sun Campground

Glacier National Park is truly one of the treasures of the United States. No matter where you’re from, you should add it to your list, so that you too, can experience its incredible views, wildlife, and rapidly changing landscape. Glacier is unique, and is one of the largest and most popular National Parks in the United States, so let’s hit the road, and head out to the very north of Montana, to see what’s left of the United States’ true wilderness.

Your Guide to Our Public Lands

During my time on the road, I’ve spent a lot of time on public land. From my slight obsession with the National Park Service, to using BLM and Forest Land to park my van overnight, I’ve experienced just about every type of public land there is in the United States. The thing is, all these terms can get confusing, and I’ve seen it happen more than once where state parks and BLM land are mistaken for National Parks. Each type of public land is vastly different, has different rules and expectations, and are run by different sectors of the government. This is a complete guide to exploring public land in the United States.

Dispersed camping on BLM land in California

National Parks

National Parks are easily the most popular and the most commonly referenced public land in the US. Many people believe that all public land is Park Land, which is an easy mistake to make. I used to think the same thing! But really, National Park only refers to the 419 sites run by the National Park Service. This includes sites with “Park Status” such as Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, and Yellowstone, as well as National Monuments (Devils Tower), National Military Parks (Gettysburg), National Historic Parks (Harper’s Ferry), and other natural sites, such as National Lakeshores, Recreation Areas, and Seashores.

The National Park Service (NPS) is my personal favorite because they truly go out of their way to protect their land. National Parks are zones free from hunting, lumber, fishing, and more, and are solely used for recreation, conservation, and education.

Bryce Canyon National Park, UT

Camping is only allowed in National Parks if you are in a developed campground. Lots of NPS campgrounds can be reserved in advance, but some are first come first served, so check on the Park’s website before visiting. Backcountry camping is allowed, but like with all public lands, you must have a permit.

Most National Parks require an entrance fee to visit, and this can range from $20-35 depending on the park. I highly suggest purchasing an America the Beautiful Pass if you are planning on visiting more than 3 National Park Service sites per year.

Glacier National Park, MT

National Forests

While the word “national” often means National Forests get lumped in with National Parks, they are vastly different from each other. The main difference is that National Forests are run by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), not the NPS. National Forests are not necessarily actual forests. They often don’t actually have trees! They’re just called forests by the USDA. Oftentimes, National Forests surround National Parks, and they’re recognizable by their brown and yellow welcome signs.

National Forests are always free to visit, as they often surround roads and highways. You will, however have to pay to camp in most developed campgrounds, and sometimes there is a parking fee for trailheads and picnic areas. An America the Beautiful Pass will waive parking fees for National Forests, but not camping fees.

Cathedral Rock, a trail maintained by one of Sedona, AZ’s many National Forests

The USDA is very different from the NPS in the way that they protect their land. Often, people can secure fishing or hunting permits in National Forests (but, please don’t. You know, respect nature). The USDA will use parts of National Forests for lumber farming, so land is not as protected in a National Forest as it is in a National Park.

The main plus-side of National Forests is something I discovered in the vanlife community, but anyone who camps often will benefit from this as well. National Forests usually allow dispersed camping: camping in undeveloped areas. This means you can park off of just about any dirt road in the Forest, and camp for free, so for overlanders and car campers, this can be a great way to never have to pay for a place to stay during a long road trip. Disclaimer: check the USDA website for the Forest you are in to check if there are any specific dispersed camping regulations in the area.

Fun Fact! The USDA and National Forest sector of our public lands is home to the only National Grassland in the prairie region of the United States. The Sheyenne National Grassland is located in North Dakota and it is absolutely gorgeous and unexpected if you happen to be going through the middle of the country.

Sheyenne National Grasslands, ND

State Parks

Believe it or not, people often also confuse State Parks for National Parks. State Parks are incredibly different from National Parks. State Parks are not run by the federal government like the other public lands on this list. State Parks are run by their state’s specific state government, so their rules and laws depend on those of the state, versus those of the federal government. State Parks are often smaller (other than the beautiful Anza Borrego Desert State Park in CA), and all of them require entrance fees averaging at about $10 across the country. The America the Beautiful Pass will not grant you entrance to a State Park (believe me, I’ve tried, many times), and instead, you must purchase a state parks pass for each separate state you visit.

State Parks include State Forests, State Historic Parks, and State Beaches, and we can just go ahead and lump County Parks and similar in this category as well.

Valley of Fire State Park, NV

BLM Land

BLM Land is one of the most confusing concepts for most people. BLM Land is not run by the National Park Service, or the Department of Agriculture, but is instead run by a completely different sector of the United States Federal Government—the Bureau of Land Management.

BLM Land is mostly for camping, rather than other types of recreation. While BLM Land does have developed campgrounds, it’s most often referred to when speaking about dispersed camping. Just like National Forest developed campgrounds, BLM Land developed sites do usually have a fee, and are usually first come first served. Dispersed sites can be found on the sides of secondary (dirt) roads, and are usually unmarked.

Parked on BLM Land in Alabama Hills, CA

Disclaimer: Dispersed camping in both National Forests and on BLM Land is not for everyone. While “free” might sound enticing, these spots have no facilities, no water, and no bathrooms. You must properly dispose of waste (trash and… you know), and Leave No Trace whenever using these sites.

LEARN LNT PRINCIPLES HERE

While public land is everywhere, it is a concept that usually confuses people. Not all public land is the same, and it’s important to know the difference before you go out and use any of it. But the main thing to remember, as with all public land, it’s important to be respectful. Do some extra research on specific destinations prior to visiting, and leave sites the way you found them. Safe travels!

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Looking to plan a road trip that takes you to public land sites in the US? My 3 month, 48 state road trip route is now available in the SHOP!

Vanlife During COVID-19

The coronavirus has completely turned the world as we know it upside down. I first heard about it when I flew back from Laos in January, and since then, I’ve moved into my new rig (my 1997 Dodge Ram conversion van) full time. Traveling full time since June has been a blessing, but as the COVID crisis continues to escalate in the US, it’s left me wondering: what about us?

Vanlifers and full time road-dwellers are growing in population, and while many people aren’t hitting the road right now due to the virus, there are quite a few of us still on the road, living full time in our vehicles. These stay at home orders are necessary, but they fail to include people who don’t have a solid home base, and who, instead, travel in their homes.

Working from home

For vanlifers, public land is a necessity. We do not just use it for recreation, outdoor sports, or even “camping.” We rely on public lands to be able to live in our homes when we have no other options (and of course, sometimes, for fun). It was expected that the National Parks would shut down, and it was expected that developed campgrounds would slowly close their gates to stop weekend warriors, snowbirds, and other people trying to vacation away from the virus. But lately, BLM and Forest land has been threatening closures too, and for those of us who live on the road, I have to ask the question: where are we supposed to go?

My van, in Alabama Hills, CA

Jared (@jaredinthevan) and I are lucky, in that we are still in the same state that my family lives in, so if worst came to absolute worst, it wouldn’t be impossible for us to turn around, and head back south, and be safe. But the fact is, our vans are our homes, and we want to be able to stay in our homes just like everyone else. So, in the event that all public land closes, many people will be facing a huge dilemma.

While stealth camping in cities is usually an option, in the attempt to avoid human contact, cities are out of the question, and we’d like to avoid small towns so that we don’t risk spreading the virus to gateway communities. Ideally, we’d like to continue self-isolation on BLM land where we can have little to no human interaction whatsoever.

Mine and Jared’s vans, isolated on public land

I’ve noticed quite a bit of insensitivity to this matter recently. People who do not follow me are commenting on my posts telling me to stop using public land for “recreation.” People are making snap judgements of full time vanlifers, telling them to go home when they might not have a place to rely on. I personally would prefer to not reach the worst case scenario of going to my parents’ house because I don’t want to risk exposing my family (especially as I have a brother who falls into the vulnerable category), and I don’t want to take their resources either, especially since toilet paper in the cities is a completely extinct species.

It’s important to practice compassion in this time, and that includes for people who live alternative lifestyles. Everybody’s lives just got turned upside down—let’s support each other, and help people living on the road quarantine safely, instead of making life harder for a unique group of people.

-HWS

Resources For Full Time Vanlifers

If you are on the road and need a place to stay, there are still open public lands, but check on the BLM website first before heading out.

iOverlander users have mentioned COVID in a couple of their reviews, so keep an eye out for that!

There is also an amazing list of people with extra land in the US who are willing to host vanlifers who need a place to stay. You can find that list HERE!

National Parks and National Emergencies

Visiting Death Valley During COVID-19

It was only a matter of time before I had to start addressing COVID-19 on here. As a travel blog that specializes in adventure travel, the world has felt a little weird lately. People can’t go outside, trails are closing, and only a few National Parks remain open. While certain small and high traffic parks have closed, such as Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and White Sands, some do remain open with modifications.

I am currently living on the road full time. What this means is that I carry my house with me, like a snail, and have been isolated on public land for the past almost-week. While California does have a “shelter in place” order, it was stated that driving no more than an hour to spend time outside is okay, so since the public land I’m calling home was one hour from Death Valley National Park, I wanted to take the opportunity to go in, see the park for the first time, and address how the world has had to make modifications due to this global pandemic.

Golden Canyon Trail

Currently, all National Parks are free to enter. Please keep in mind that National Parks are different from National Forests, which are run by the USDA, rather than the NPS. Largely, National Parks are not staffed right now. Visitor Centers are closed nationwide and bathrooms, campgrounds, and other facilities like parking lots that need to be maintained are locked. While Death Valley remained open, it felt like a very different, almost eerie experience to visit during this time. With only one ranger sighting throughout the entire park, multiple road closures, and 40MPH wind gusts, visiting a National Park during a National Emergency was an adventure to remember.

Please note: it is inadvisable to travel to National Parks during the COVID outbreak. I live full time on the road, mostly on BLM land, where I am able to isolate. I did not travel to go on a vacation in the National Park. This is my lifestyle, and I am treating it no differently than if I was in a house driving an hour to hike a local trail.

Zabriskie Point

About Death Valley:

Death Valley is the largest National Park in the lower 48, and spans across both California and Nevada. It is most commonly accessed through the west, and we entered through Lone Pine, CA, which is where we are camped. Death Valley is a bit of a mismatched park. It has a little bit of everything, from mountains to desert, and each of its main attractions don’t really feel like they should fit together. From sand dunes to the lowest elevation in the United States at the Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Death Valley is a unique park that should be added to your list for future trips.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Restrictions in the National Park:

While Death Valley remains open at the time of the publication of this piece, there were restrictions within the park. Most visitor centers nationwide are closed right now, as are all public restrooms, lodging/camping, and pay stations. In Death Valley specifically, we were surprised to see that Panamint Springs was open, meaning we could get gas on our way into and out of the park. All parking lots were barricaded, so street parking was our only option for the sites that were open. There were also unexpected road closures, which caused for some disappointment as we tried to access Artists Palette, Dante’s View, Natural Arch, and Devils Golfcourse.

Badwater Basin Salt Flats

What was accessible?

Despite the restrictions, quite a lot was still accessible, and due to the lack of visitors, it was completely possible to still be isolated while in the park. We did not come into contact with any other people, and as avid hikers and outdoorsy humans, we always leave no trace, and that includes the spread of COVID (hands were washed often and we were careful to only touch the natural features of the park).

We were able to access the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, Badwater Basin Salt Flats, Golden Canyon trail, Ubehebe Crater, and Zabriskie Point, so we felt like we got a decent overview of the park, even though we had less than 12 hours there altogether.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

The thing is, this trip to a National Park was incredibly different from any other National Park trip I’ve taken in the past. While this was my 35th park, it didn’t feel quite the same without a trip to the visitor center, open roads, and maps to collect. But the thing is, although we visited out of convenience and a need to get outside during this self-isolation, the park isn’t going anywhere. I can always go back and experience it in full. It’s time to let mother Earth heal first, and then the adventure can continue.

-HWS